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About Richard Reina

Richard Reina is the Product Trainer at CARiD.com, one of the fastest growing aftermarket automotive online retailers in the world. CARiD.com caters to the needs of all levels of automotive enthusiasts worldwide, from the do-it-yourself home mechanic to custom shops and dealers. Check out CARiD.com’s extensive selection of auto parts at www.carid.com.

Gasoline Quality Does Matter – Improve Fuel Mileage

September 1, 2016 By Richard Reina Leave a Comment

Gasoline Quality Does MatterWhen we go to fill our gas tanks, most of us never think twice about the quality of gasoline we’re putting in our car. We’re guilty of looking for the nearest gas station, or if we’re in close proximity to a few, we’ll choose the one with the least expensive price per gallon. However, what we’re saving at the pump may actually be costing us on a much larger scale later on down the road, as the lower quality of gas harms our engines and costs money for expensive repairs.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)

Back in the 1980s, the increased use of fuel injection systems was starting to create another problem. It was found that the gasoline in use was causing harmful engine deposits, leading to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) mandating that all fuels in the U.S. have a minimum level of detergent additives included. Recently though, it’s been discovered that this minimum detergent package is not enough to get the job done.

Gasoline Manufacturers

Certain gasoline manufacturers went even further than the EPA by creating this TOP TIER standard, requiring a higher level of detergent than set by law. In early July, AAA released a study that found gasolines with the minimum additives cause 19 times more engine deposits than those with added detergent after just 4,000 miles of simulated driving, proving that not all gasoline is created equal. Higher quality fuel costs on average about three cents more a gallon than a lesser gasoline, but switching to a TOP TIER fuel after using lower quality fuel can reduce or remove deposits that have already formed.

As part of their research, AAA also surveyed drivers to find out their beliefs and purchase habits in regards to fuel. Key findings include:

  • Many drivers (2/3) believe that fuel quality does vary by brand
  • But about half (47%) of U.S. drivers do not regularly buy gasoline that contains an enhanced detergent additive
  • Americans are six times more likely to choose a gas station based on the price of gasoline than the quality of fuel.

Based on these findings, the consequences of using lower quality gasoline is a concern that needs to be brought to many motorists’ attention. It may be a little more expensive and less convenient to fill your tank with higher quality fuel, but it’s evident that these slight drawbacks are greatly outweighed by the benefits. Not only does using fuel with added detergent benefit your engine by reducing engine deposits, but it can also improve fuel mileage and performance. It will also result in your car having lower emissions and having a smoother idle.

Improve Fuel Mileage

Since higher quality gasoline is more expensive, you’ll want to make sure you’re getting the most out of it. Here are some adjustments you can make to improve fuel mileage:

  • Check and set tire pressures – according to the Department of Energy, every one psi (pounds per square inch) drop in the pressure of the tires will lower gas mileage by .4%. Tires can lose about 2 psi per month.
  • Make sure alignment is correct – improper alignment leads to tire dragging and wear, which will decrease MPG.
  • Don’t idle your engine unnecessarily – it burns unnecessary fuel, and restarting your car only takes about 10 seconds of fuel!
  • Avoid heavy acceleration and braking – this can lower gas mileage by 33% at highway speeds and by 5% at around town speeds.
  • Try to drive at constant speeds – use cruise control when possible to maintain a moderate speed (~50mph) and decrease aerodynamic drag.

If you commit to making the switch to high quality fuel and making these small changes to your car/driving style, you’ll ensure that your car is healthy and efficient.

Filed Under: News

Protect Your Cars Value by Protecting Your Cars Interior

August 1, 2016 By Richard Reina Leave a Comment

Protect Your Cars Value by Protecting Your Cars Interior

Every time we get in our car and head down the road, we put ourselves at risk for dings, dents, and who knows what else. Even when our cars are parked we can fall victim to hail, sun damage, and the dreaded fly-by bird droppings. As car lovers, we do everything we can to protect and maintain the exterior of our vehicles to ensure they stay looking shiny and new. So why wouldn’t we do that with the interior too?

Many of us think that the inside of our cars remain protected because well, they’re inside. But what we forget is that our interiors are subjected to just as much abuse as the exterior, and without a proper care plan in place, can be damaged quite quickly. The sun coming through your windshield isn’t just making your seats hot; it’s fading your interior. And that coffee spill? That’s a stain that will stay forever.

We could all do a better job of protecting the interiors of our cars to ensure maximum comfort and longevity. Follow these simple tips and your interior will remain as cherry as your exterior.

Windshield sun shades.

We all know how stifling it can be to sit in your car on a hot summer day and wait for the air conditioner to do its job. When the temperature outside gets to be 80 degrees or more, the temperature inside a car that’s sitting in direct sunlight can quickly rise to 130 degrees or higher.

One way to remedy that is by blocking out direct entry points where sunlight gets through with windshield sun shades. Most are in universal small, medium, and large sizes, but there are also vehicle-specific sun shades that ensure ultimate protection.

Dash and rear deck covers.

Heat isn’t the only byproduct of direct sunlight coming through the windows of your car. Even when temperatures aren’t high, the sun can damage your interior – specifically your dashboard and rear decks, which are most exposed through your front and read windshields.

The sun can fade and crack dash tops – especially dark-colored ones that absorb light even more – but a solid set of dash and rear deck covers will keep these areas cool and protected.

Floor mats.

It’s important to remember that floor mats protect our interiors from more than just rain and snow. If you camp or frequent the beach, you’re dragging dirt and sand into your interior. Just walking outside before getting into your car can bring gravel or grass inside as well. Combined with how often our mats shift around from getting in and out, it’s too easy for our carpets to get damaged.

“All-weather” style mats, though usually associated with cold weather, are equally effective in protecting carpeting in the summer. That’s why they are called “all-weather!” These will stay in place to collect water, dirt, and whatever else you can throw at them, while also protecting your carpet from the wear and tear of your feet.

Protect Your Cars Value by Protecting Your Cars InteriorKeep upholstery clean.

Easier said than done, right? We’ve all had that nightmare moment when the hamburger we were eating falls and the ketchup/mustard is smeared all over the seat. Since we’re driving, we usually can’t get to it right away and then it gets forgotten about.

Stains may become baked onto surfaces, and will be harder to clean if not attended to right away. I’d recommend keeping some sort of fabric cleaner and a little brush in your trunk. That way you can quickly pull over to remove the stain, or at least address it when you reach your destination. No one wants to sit on dried condiments.

Investing in some of these accessories does carry a cost, but it’s far less than what you would pay to reupholster your seats or have your carpets professionally cleaned.

There’s also simple tactics like trying to park in the shade whenever possible, or knocking dirt/sand off your shoes before getting into your car. By taking a few simple steps, and with a small investment, you can ensure the inside of your car remains in great shape for years of driving to come.

Filed Under: Mechanics

How to Get Your Car Ready For the Summer

June 14, 2016 By Richard Reina 1 Comment

 Automobile Car Maintenance Tips

When we think of the best time to give our cars a check-up, most of us would suggest right before winter. There is always a lot of focus on getting cars ready for colder weather, but what goes unnoticed a lot of the time are the crucial maintenance and upgrades our cars need to withstand hot weather. Just like winter weather, extremely warm temperatures also take a large toll on your vehicle’s inner workings.

A lot of the maintenance necessary for summer can be done on your own, which is not only more fun, but it also saves you a lot of money. Here are some things to keep in mind as we head into these summer months:

Check your oil

Higher temperatures require higher oil weight/viscosity. Most new cars run fine year-round on the same viscosity oil, but if you’re driving an older car that’s racked up some significant mileage, it might be helpful to upgrade to a heavier oil to compensate for internal engine wear. However, before making the switch, do your research and make sure your car’s make/model will fare well with heavier/thicker oil in the summer.

Check your battery date

Most worry about their battery dying under the impact of cold weather, but what they don’t realize is that car batteries are more likely to die in the heat of the summer.  If your battery is over three years old, get it tested, or it might be a good idea to get a new unit just as a preventative measure to avoid getting stuck in the unbearable heat.

Top off fluids

Your radiator’s antifreeze does not need replacing every year, but some mechanics may suggest it. The mechanic should first test the fluid using a coolant hydrometer. You can check the coolant level yourself (easy to do at the see-through overflow bottle). If you need to top up, be sure to use a 50/50 mixture for best boil-over protection. Adding too much? Be sure to check for leaks (look for staining around hoses). While you’re under the hood, top up the washer solvent.

Change your air filters

Riding around with dirty filters prevents fresh air from getting to your engine and your interior, which has a lasting effect on your engine’s well-being, along with your fuel economy and your sinuses. Engine air filters are super easy to replace yourself. Consider the washable and reusable ones for better filtration and long-term savings. Don’t forget the cabin air filter, which keeps outside smells and pollens out of your heating and A/C systems.

Consider summer tires

 Summer can be just as taxing on tires as winter, as heat and sunlight break down the rubber more quickly. All-season tires are designed to handle many different conditions, but because it’s a one-size-fits-all there is some compromising. To maximize your year-round driving enjoyment, consider investing in wider wheels and summer tires for warmer months, and having winter tires on skinnier stock rims for colder weather.

Check your AC

Mechanics will try to convince you that you need a full flush and leak-down test every summer to make sure AC is working properly, but your AC is likely fine as long as it’s blowing cold air.

If it’s not, and you’re driving an older car, check to see if your heater control is stuck in the “ON” position, as you may only need a new heater valve. Some cars need nothing more than a “top up” of AC refrigerant once a year. If the top-up doesn’t fix it, ask for a test using pressure gauges, which will diagnose the real problem and avoid unnecessary replacement of parts.

Quick inspection

At least twice a year (just before summer and just before winter), be proactive and check fluid levels, battery terminal connections, belts, hoses, wipers, brakes, tires and lighting to catch small issues before they become big issues.

Following these preventative measures in the weeks leading up to summer will keep your car in good condition all season long and let you take full advantage of all your summer travels!

Car Maintenance Tips

Filed Under: Mechanics

Tool Boxes: Better Storage and Organization Help You Accomplish More

March 31, 2016 By Richard Reina 1 Comment

Tool Box Buyers GuideA good friend of mine recently invited me over to help him perform a few basic maintenance tasks on the nice, classic car he had just purchased. I asked: “Do you need me to bring any tools?” to which he responded, “No worries, I’ve got everything I need”. So I went over empty handed.

We had a pleasant day working together on his convertible, and accomplished what we had set out to do. True to his word, the tools we needed were in his garage. However, all of them were piled up, on top of one another, on a metal utility shelf. My buddy had a small metal portable toolbox, but instead of tools, it was full of old parts from previous projects. The tools were out in the open, and each time we needed one, we first had to wade through the pile to find what we were looking for. The repetitive tool hunt was an exercise in futility, and caused us to spend that much more time on the tasks at hand.

Tool Box Buyers Guide

Canvas Carryalls

Whether you are in the classic car hobby, or are performing some DIY maintenance on your daily driver, or even are expanding the tool collection in order to take care of all your household projects, good tool storage and organization become a necessity for your home workshop. You will likely find that as your skills and confidence grow, so does your tool collection. But stacking the tools in one open location (or worse, several locations) doesn’t get the job done, literally.

 Buyers Guide Tool Carts

Tool Carts

We divide the different choices in tool storage like this: there are the portable solutions, traditionally metal, but now also made of plastic or canvas, which hold few tools, but can easily be carried to the job site. Next are tool carts, which we think are better suited for production or remote service environments, where needed tools are loaded onto a wheeled cart, rolled to the job, then brought back to a central location. Stationary lockers and cabinets have their advantages, but more as storage for supplies and consumables. Finally, the tool

Buyers Guide Tool Storage

Tool Storage Cabinets

chest/cabinet combination has long been held as the mechanic’s “standard”, offering significant capacity and organization. These are the large, metal, multi-drawer tool boxes you’ll find inside automotive service departments, and they are the ones we recommend for the serious DIYer.

Certainly, the attraction of the smaller portable carriers is cost, and at the same time, the larger initial outlay for a tool chest or cabinet can be a detriment. The cliché “you get what you pay for” comes to mind here. If you’re serious about tool storage, and are thinking long-term with the expectation that your tool collection will grow, then this is not an area in which to skimp. Quality steel construction, with lockable drawers that can open and close while holding up to 100 pounds

Tool Chest Buyers Guide

4-drawer tool chest, or top box. Note that 3 of the 4 drawers are full-width

each, are features which give you the assurance that these boxes will last for decades. (I’m still using my first tool chest that was purchased in 1978.) Think of a high-quality toolbox as a life-long investment.

When shopping for tool boxes, you’ll see terms you may not be familiar with. Here are the industry-accepted definitions of the different kinds of tool boxes:

Buyers Guide Tool Chest

A large roller cabinet, or bottom box. Note the 6 casters, wide top drawer, and rubber-mat work surface.)

A “tool chest”, also called a “top box”, is a multi-drawer tool cabinet with a hinged lid. It can be used either on its own, or on top of a roller cabinet (see that definition below). Tool chests do not come with wheels, and are not intended to be placed on the floor; rather, they are designed to sit at waist height. If used by themselves, they are best placed on a sturdy table or bench.

A roller cabinet, also called a bottom box, is a multi-drawer tool cabinet, usually supplied with caster wheels (hence the name “roller”). It is intended to be used either by itself, or, as the base for a tool chest/top box. If used on its own, the top

Tool Box Buyers Guide

A combination box. Note the struts on the top lid, the side handle, and the large number of shallow drawers.

surface can be used as a work area, and might offer the option of rubber or wooden work surfaces.

A combination box (also known as a combo box or combo unit) is simply the combination of a top box and bottom box (tool chest and roller cabinet). Frequently,

manufacturers will offer these for sale together. The advantages are a better price along with the guarantee that the two pieces will fit together.

Tool Box Buyers Guide

This side cabinet has both drawers and shelves.

A middle cabinet, or intermediate box, allows you to expand your tool capacity without replacing your existing set-up. Middle cabinets neatly fit between top and bottom boxes. Just make sure that the width of the components match.

Buyers Guide Tool Boxes

A 3-drawer middle cabinet. Note the separate lock, as each section of your combo box should have.

A side cabinet is a small tool box not intended to be used on its own. Rather, it mounts onto one side of a roller cabinet, to provide incremental additional storage.

A pit box at first glance can be mistaken for a roller cabinet. However, the design

concept is different, as a pit box is more intended to travel from location to location. A pit box uses significantly larger caster wheels, as well as an extended handle, allowing it to roll manually, or even be pulled at low speed by a motorized vehicle.

Are you now closer to making a decision to purchase? These are the factors you must take into consideration:

Tool Box Buyers Guide - Fathers Day

A pit box. Note that the pull handle also steers the wheels. The top serves as a work surfaceAre you now closer to making a decision to purchase? These are the factors you must take into consideration:

  1. How much storage do you need today, and how much will you need down the road? You don’t need to buy everything at once, but think about how your initial purchase can be expanded in the future. Inventory your current tools, and consider near-term and long-term future purchases.
  2. Where will the tool boxes reside? In the garage? Basement? Perhaps you have a set-up which will allow you to roll the box from one location to another. Think this through before you make the purchase. A critical measurement to know is the WIDTH of the available space. You may want a 72” wide bottom box, but may only have the room for one that’s 41” wide. Typically, you have room to go up, but measure that too!
  3. You may first be attracted to boxes with deep drawers, as they give the impression that they hold a lot. However, remember that the vast majority of hand tools take up little space (screwdrivers, wrenches, sockets, pliers, etc.). For this reason, we recommend tool boxes with a greater number of shallow drawers instead of a fewer number of deeper drawers. The greater drawer count allows you better organization, as more drawers can be dedicated to specific tools.
  4. If the initial purchase is limited to just one tool box, the choice will be between a tool chest (top box) or a roller cabinet (bottom box). Our recommendation: if you have room on a work bench, get the tool chest (remember that once it’s loaded, you will not be able to lift it). If you have room on the floor, say, next to a work bench, get the roller cabinet.
Tool Box - Buyers Guide

This is our workshop tool box. A label maker handily helps us know which tools are in which drawers

Our best advice is to purchase the highest quality tool box you can afford. Once you have it in place and loaded, you will be amazed at how much easier it will be to find the right tool in the shortest time. Your ability to get jobs done will happen even faster, and you’ll enjoy the work more. (Don’t be shy about labeling the drawers as we did; there’s no shame in reminding yourself where you put the 1/2” drive sockets.)  The investment in a mechanic’s quality tool box will pay itself back many times over, and will last a lifetime.

 

Filed Under: Reviews

A Trailer Hitch for Cargo Carrying

February 18, 2016 By Richard Reina 1 Comment

Whether you drive a compact car, small crossover, medium SUV, or a full-size pickup truck, there is a good reason to install a trailer hitch on your vehicle, even if you’re not pulling a trailer. In this article, we will discuss the advantages of a rear-mounted receiver hitch for carrying cargo or sporting equipment.

A “receiver hitch” is one which has a square-shaped opening in its center, to receive either the trailer ball & mount, or any number of available accessories. A typical such hitch looks like this:

Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide

The hitch industry has exploded in recent years, with the tow hitch manufacturers cranking out plenty of offerings. The good news for you is that there is a greater chance than ever of finding a trailer hitch designed specifically for your year, make, and model vehicle. And let’s bust this myth that the trailer hitch must be welded to the car. False! Not only do these custom units bolt into place, most of them do not require drilling. They cleverly use openings in the existing frame or unibody for strategically placed hardware. We have done a few of these installs ourselves. A buddy is helpful (but not necessary) to lift the hitch into place. But most can be bolted into place within an hour.

As you begin the shopping process, you may need to make some decisions among the choices you find. If you are NOT planning to ever pull a trailer, the “load rating” of the receiver hitch is of little or no concern. You may find, however, that you have a choice between the two most common receiver sizes: 1 ¼”, or 2”. The dimension refers to the measure of one side of the square, and these are industry standards. If both sizes are available, we recommend the 2”, as there will be more accessories to choose from. If you have a compact or subcompact, the 1 ¼” may be the only choice. Do not fret! An adapter will allow use of 2” accessories in the smaller opening.

Today, most of these quality units are painted or powder-coated for long-lasting good looks, and are tucked behind the bumper to avoid bruising your shins every time you walk past the car. Once you’ve purchased and installed the hitch, the real fun begins, and that is researching the plethora of accessories you can buy.

 Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide  - Trailer Hitch Buying Advice for Cargo CarryingFrom our experience, probably the most popular hitch-mounted accessory is the bike rack. Let’s face it: folks love bike-riding, and being able to drive your bike to a different riding location expands your choice of locales. But the act of carrying the bikes can be so cumbersome. Do you put it inside the wagon? On the roof? What if you have multiple bikes to carry? The hitch-mounted bike rack gives you the advantages of a low lift height, secure mounting, and 100% of your vehicle’s interior room. Some models carry 2 bikes; others can take up to 5, so be sure to check the details. The deluxe ones include arms that swing the bikes out of the way, allowing you to open your tailgate without unloading the bikes.

Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide  - Trailer Hitch Buying Advice for Cargo CarryingWinter sports more your thing? The skiers and snowboarders among you will be thrilled to know that you can purchase hitch-mounted carriers for these kinds of sports equipment. While the vehicle’s roof has been the more traditional carrying spot, your car may not accommodate a roof-mounted carrier, or you may be disinclined to reach up there all the time.

Perhaps you need to occasionally carry more stuff than will fit in the back of the truck, and who doesn’t have more stuff these days? Cargo carriers in the form of trays, baskets, even boxes, can be mounted into the receiver hitch. If you have a family, with every seat taken inside the vehicle, sometimes all you need is “that little bit more” room, and these carriers fit the bill perfectly. (We have personally seen many modern 3-row SUVs which offer miniscule cargo holds behind the 3rd Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide  - Trailer Hitch Buying Advice for Cargo Carryingseat.) Like the sports equipment carriers, you gain the advantage of low lift-over compared to anything roof-mounted. These can easily be removed when not needed; some offer the option of a fold-up design which keeps them at-the-ready, but tucked out of the way when not being used.

Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide  - Trailer Hitch Buying Advice for Cargo CarryingFinally, in the “less is more” category, we have receiver-mounted hitch steps. While not “cargo carriers” per se, these inexpensive yet extremely handy little devices give you a boost right where you need it: up to your Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide  - Trailer Hitch Buying Advice for Cargo Carryingcar’s roof, or into the pickup bed, even as a step to get you deep into the wayback of the SUV. Many of them have rubbertread for surefootedness, and are available in various finishes. Some offer the option of an additional light in them. OK, we’ll say it:
these are especially appreciated by those of us who are vertically challenged. We know some owners who keep theirs in place year-round as additional parking lot protection (and a recent trip into NYC bore witness to over half the SUVs having this rear step left in place at all times).

Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide  - In conclusion: receiver hitches are affordable (many units are under $200), easy to install, and are not just for people who own a camper or a boat! For many, their primary use is to carry sports equipment or additional cargo. When used this way, the rear hitch offers you easy and convenient loading which doesn’t intrude on interior space. We think that once you’ve experienced how versatile they are, you will be looking for additional cargo-carrying accessories for your hitch. In conclusion: receiver hitches are affordable (many units are under $200), easy to install, and are not just for people who own a camper or a boat! Trailer Hitch Buyers Guide  - Trailer Hitch Buying Advice for Cargo CarryingFor many, their primary use is to carry sports equipment or additional cargo. When used this way, the rear hitch offers you easy and convenient loading which doesn’t intrude on interior
space. We think that once you’ve experienced how versatile they are, you will be looking for additional cargo-carrying accessories for your hitch.

Filed Under: News

Tire Sizes: What Do All the Numbers and Letters Mean?

January 25, 2016 By Richard Reina 1 Comment

Understanding Tire Sizes

You’ve been told that your vehicle needs tires, and you’re on your way to the tire store. Or maybe not. Perhaps you’re online at any number of web-based tire suppliers. Of course, you know the year, make and model of your vehicle, but you have no idea what size tires are on there now. The current tires might be the ones installed by the factory. Or, they could be the set you bought 5 years ago which are now shot. Maybe you bought your car used and have no idea if what’s on there is correct.

What size tires are you going to buy?

You could go outside and look at the lettering on the sidewall. But it’s (pick one or more) dark/cold/rainy/late. Besides, you can’t find your flashlight. Or, you can’t do this right now because the car’s not here. Your wife/son/unemployed friend borrowed it for the evening. But, the online sites know your tire size, except, when you punch in the vehicle specifics, the screen invites you to “select your tire size from these choices”.

Argghh!

Not to worry. We’re here to help. Really. We are going to walk you through an understanding of all the alpha-numeric characters on a tire’s sidewall so that you can be certain that you’re getting the correct size tires for your car or truck.

First things first: unless you (or a previous owner) have modified your ride with larger wheels or significantly upgraded suspension, we will presume that you need to purchase tires in the same size as the factory used. If you are certain that the current tires are the same size, get that info from the sidewall. If you have doubts, you have other options. Look for the mandated tire pressure decal (it may be in the door jamb, fuel door, or glovebox lid), or look in the vehicle owner’s manual. You can also call the vehicle maker’s Customer Service Department. (They may ask you for the vehicle’s VIN, or Vehicle Identification Number, which you’ll find on a tag on top of the dash, or on your registration papers.)

You should have something very close to a string of alpha-numeric characters like this (the ones in parentheses may not be part of your particular tire’s size):

Understanding Tire Sizes

(A) NNN / NN (A) NN (NN) (A)

Here’s an example of an actual tire size:

P 195 / 65 R 16 95 V

We’ll decipher this coding very shorty. Before we do, here is the most important bit of information in our article: STAY WITH THE ORIGINAL, RECOMMENDED TIRE SIZE FOR YOUR CAR OR TRUCK. THIS SERIES OF LETTERS AND NUMBERS DETERMINES THE OVERALL DIAMETER OF YOUR WHEEL & TIRE COMBINATION. VARYING FROM THIS SIZE CAN AFFECT THE CAR’S HANDLING, BRAKING, SPEEDOMETER ACCURACY, AND OVERALL SAFETY.

You may find that the tire salesperson “recommends” a different size tire, for any number of reasons (price, brand, availability, perceived performance enhancements). Does everyone in fact always use the same size as originally installed? Of course not. But those who venture toward a different size usually have some deeper automotive technical knowledge, and this article is NOT intended for those folks. By giving you the decoding info, we’re arming you with the data to help you intelligently communicate with the tire seller, whether in person, on the phone, or online, during the sales transaction.

Let’s take the tire size above, P 195 / 65 R 15 95V, and assign a position to each character:

1st character = P

2nd character = 195

3rd character = 65

4th character = R

5th character = 15

6th character = 95

7th character = V

Each character is named and deciphered as follows:

1ST character (letter): SERVICE TYPE

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • P = P-metric (also referred to as “passenger”); intended for use on passenger vehicles, including cars, SUVs, minivans, and light trucks.
  • LT = Light Truck; intended for vehicles with heavier cargo or heavier towing capabilities, including heavier-duty pickups, SUVs, and vans.
  • T = Temporary; almost exclusively found on spare tires (so-called mini spares) intended for short term only use.

2nd character (number): TREAD WIDTH

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Measurement across the tire’s tread from sidewall to sidewall
  • Always expressed in millimeters
  • Common examples: 195, 225
  • To convert to inches, divide by 25.4
  • 195mm = 7.7”; 225mm = 8.9”

3rd character (number): ASPECT RATIO

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • The sidewall height (from wheel opening to outer edge of sidewall) expressed as a percentage of tread width
  • Always indicated as “percent”
  • Common examples: 65, 50
  • Example #1: if the tread width is 195mm, and the aspect ratio is 65, the sidewall height = (195 x 65%), or (195 x .65), which equals 126.75mm
  • Example #2: if the tread width is 225mm, and the aspect ratio is 50, the sidewall height = (225 x 50%), or (225 x .50), which equals 112.5mm
  • To convert to inches, divide by 25.4
  • 75mm = 5”; 112.5mm = 4.4”

4th character (letter): TIRE CONSTRUCTION

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indication of the way the tire’s internal plies and belts are arranged
  • Most commonly found: “R” for “radial” tire (likely the case with 99.5% of new tires sold)
  • Also found (but rare):
    • “D” for “diagonal” (bias ply);
    • “B” for “belted” (additional belts under the tread)

5th character (number): WHEEL SIZE

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indicates the diameter of the wheel, or rim
  • Always expressed in inches
  • Common examples: 15, 16, 18
  • Also indicates the size of the hole in the middle of the tire
  • The tire’s “wheel size” and the diameter of the wheel MUST MATCH

6th character (number): LOAD INDEX

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indicates the weight that a car is rated to carry
  • Always expressed as a 2-digit number
  • Conversion chart must be referenced to equate the load index to pounds
  • Examples: 91; 95
  • A load index of “91” equates to 1356 lb. per tire (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • A load index of “95” equates to 1521 lb. per tire (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • Never purchase tires with a lower load index than originally equipped!

7th character (letter): SPEED RATING

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indicates the maximum speed that the vehicle is rated to travel on these tires
  • Always expressed as a single letter
  • Conversion chart must be referenced to equate the speed rating to MPH
  • Examples: S; V
  • A speed rating of “S” equates to 112 MPH / 180 KPH (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • A speed rating of “V” equates to 149 MPH / 240 KPH (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • Never purchase tires with a lower speed rating than originally equipped!

What should you do with all this information? Print this out (or access it on your mobile device) as a reference guide. If you’re offered tires in the EXACT same size, load index, and speed rating as your original equipment (OE) tires, you’re there. (Information on selecting a brand, quality level, and tread design are for a future article.) If you are offered a tire that’s “almost the same size” (perhaps the aspect ratio is a larger number) and you’re told “it’s close enough”, STOP. That is not true. Either insist on the correct size tire, or find another retailer who has the sizes you need. Any change in tread width, aspect ratio, load index or speed rating will affect the way your vehicle drives, and could seriously affect the safety of everyone who rides with you. There are enough reputable dealers out there to allow you to find someone who understands, as you now do, that the only correct tires for your car are the right-sized tires.

Understanding Tire Sizes
 

Filed Under: Mechanics

Performance Exhaust Kits Can Give You the Sound, Power, and Looks You Want

December 4, 2015 By Richard Reina 3 Comments

Learn about Performance Exhaust KitsWhether you have an older ride that’s overdue for a new exhaust, or a newer car or truck with a wimpy factory exhaust system, there’s almost nothing in the automotive aftermarket that can give you more bang for your buck than a new performance exhaust system. You can get it all: greater power, better sound, and shinier appearance, with just a few hours work.

Let’s cover some basics first. There are exhaust “kits” which include all needed parts, and are customized to fit YOUR particular year, make, and model. There are also universal mufflers and pipes which allow you to build your own set-up. Unless you’re an experienced fabricator, we recommend staying with the vehicle-specific kits, for both cost and ease of installation.

Learn about Performance Exhaust KitsAnother important fact: almost every car sold in the U.S. since the mid-1970s has been equipped with a catalytic converter. Trucks began “converting” to converters in the 1980s-early 1990s. The most straightforward approach is to look for a “cat-back” kit, meaning, an exhaust kit which will have everything you need, starting at the rear of your existing catalytic converter. We do not condone removal of emission control devices! You have the further option to consider exhaust headers, which replace factory exhaust manifolds. Due to their expense and complexity to install, they are outside of our scope today.

Learn about Performance Exhaust KitsHow do you start looking? Start by answering this question: which is most important, more power, louder sound, or better looks? If it’s power, look for kits from companies that post actual horsepower and torque gains for your engine. Exhaust systems can indeed improve your engine’s power output, and they do that by maximizing the efficiency of the exhaust flow. Several specific techniques which are used include converting from single to dual exhaust; utilizing straighter pipes with fewer bends; and making mufflers which have fewer baffles and restrictions.

If a throatier sound is your goal, you are in a much better position than those of us who were purchasing performance exhaust twenty years ago. Most reputable aftermarket exhaust manufacturers utilize “sound files” on their websites. Enter your vehicle info, select a system you’re interested in, and play the audio clip. Listen to 2 or 3 of them back to back, as what you’re really chasing is the relative distinction among them. When you’ve heard one you like, you have a pretty good idea of how your ride will sound.

Learn about Performance Exhaust Kits

If appearance is the number one priority, then look for systems which are made of polished stainless steel. These look especially good on trucks, the higher the lift the better, because obviously, you will be able to see more of the shine. Further appearance tweaks to consider are kits with optional side (behind the rear tires) exits vs. rear (under the bumper) exits, extended exhaust tips (the larger the diameter, the better!), and for certain pickups, vertical exhaust stacks that make your rig look like one of the big boys!

If you’re handy with tools, and more importantly, have a way to get your vehicle a few feet up in the air, installing a custom exhaust system is not difficult work. However, for older vehicles, you will likely be dealing with some rusty clamps and pipes, which will accelerate the frustration issue. If there’s any doubt about your ability to get this done, a professional who has access to a lift and power tools can knock out the job at minimal cost.

Whether you’re driving a 20-year-old econobox, a late-model muscle car, or a pickup truck of any vintage, you can completely transform your ride by bolting up a cat-back vehicle-specific exhaust system.

Filed Under: Mechanics

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights – Can I get Projectors, Halos and LEDS?

November 17, 2015 By Richard Reina 2 Comments

You’ve seen the cars and trucks with their custom headlight assemblies –boring factory units replaced with all-chrome or all-black headlight units, full of bright halos and LED strips, lighting up the night. Looks sick, right? But why are the guys and gals with the newest set of wheels having all the fun? You’re justifiably proud of your ‘60s (or ‘80s) old-skool ride, but have always assumed that custom headlights aren’t a choice for you because of your round or rectangular lamps.

Think again. If you’re running what we call “sealed-beam” headlamps, there are a lot of sealed-beam conversion options. These allow you to replace those one-piece units with lights that are equal to, if not better than, some of the custom composite jobs.

First, let’s clarify what kinds of Original-Equipment (OE) lights we’re talking about. Almost all U.S. spec cars through the mid-1970s used ROUND sealed-beam headlamps, either TWO 7” lamps, or FOUR 5 ¾” lamps. The 7” lamps are combination low/high beam, and cars with the 5 ¾” lamps are running 2 low beam, and 2 high beam.

Sealed Beam Conversion Kits - Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights – Can I get Projectors, Halos and LEDS?

In the mid-70s, cars and trucks started using rectangular sealed beam lamps as an option. If you had TWO (combo low/high), technically they were 200 mm (millimeter); FOUR of them (again, 2 low beam and 2 high) were each 165mm. Some lighting manufacturers call the small ones 4”x6” and the larger ones 7”x6”.  If there’s any doubt, check the number of electrical prongs in the back. Combo low/high beam lamps have THREE prongs. Separate low beam or high beam sealed beam lights have TWO prongs.

Sealed Beam Conversion Kits  - Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights

Now that you know what’s currently installed, what might you do to liven things up? Let’s start with the simplest choices first. Round and rectangular lamps are available, which include separate, replaceable bulbs. Combined with improved lenses and reflectors, these will dazzle you with their significantly improved light output. Unlike rather dim sealed beams, which require complete replacement when they burn out, these separate lens/bulb units only require you to reach in and replace the bulb – the lens stays in place.

You want more? Get lights with all-chrome or blacked-out housings, and use them as a styling statement, even when parked. Light assemblies in the same size and shape as your factory ones are available with halos or LED strips, just like you see on the newest BMWs and Audis. Of course, you also get fully functioning low and high beam lights.

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights - Sealed Beam Conversion Kits

How about halos in amber, blue, red, or green? You can set it up so that the amber halo functions as a turn signal. (Keep in mind that in many parts of the U.S., blue, red, or green front lights are considered for show use only. It’s a good practice with any of these lights to check your local ordinances for the appropriateness of on-road use.)

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights - Sealed Beam Conversion Kits

Possibly the “ultimate” is an LED conversion kit. These multi-faceted lamp assemblies have a truly unique look, with their low/high beam LED lights, and bright LED halo rings.

Whichever you choose, we may have saved the best news for last- these are really easy to install! Sealed beam bulbs by definition require little technical ability to replace. They were designed to be removed and replaced with just a few screws. The conversion kits are installed in exactly the same way. Compared to the composite lamps on newer vehicles, some of which require front fascia removal, you’ll be done in a fraction of the time. Everything from a ’55 Chevy to an ’85 Mustang can showcase the vast improvement in its front lamps once a sealed beam conversion kit is installed.

Filed Under: Mechanics

Brake Replacement & Upgrade Options

September 30, 2015 By Richard Reina 6 Comments

What comes to mind when you hear the term “automotive performance?” Most people, auto enthusiast or not, will think of big crate engines, superchargers and turbos, flame throwing exhaust, and maybe even suspension components. But what about brakes? All of that extra “go” will be useless if you can’t stop. Most of us will know it’s time to replace our brakes when one of two things happen:

  • Your service mechanic tells you after completing an oil change, tire rotation, or similar job
  • As you approach a red light you hear that notorious squeal that announces to you and everyone in a 2 block radius that the time has come

But the term “brake job” can mean many things depending on your vehicle, driving style, and how often you maintain your brakes. And just like the vast selection of air intakes, tuners, and other performance parts, there is a large variety of replacement and performance brake components.

Replacement vs. Performance

The first thing to determine is what you need. Are you looking to repair a commuter car or replace brakes on a non-modified vehicle? If so replacement brake parts will be a lower cost compared to performance parts and just as effective for normal driving. If your vehicle has some engine modifications, you like to drive on winding mountain roads, or you do a lot of towing, then you should possibly consider upgrading your brakes. In either case, the two main components will be the same: pads and rotors.

Fix My Car - how to replace brake pads

Complete Break Kit – Original Equipment

Fix My Car - how to replace brake pads

Complete Break Kit – Performance

 

Brake Pads

Brake pads are arguably the most important part of your vehicle braking system. As you apply your brake pedal they compress and create friction, causing your vehicle to stop. Whether your vehicle’s brakes are disc or drum style, you should purchase new pads each time you service your brakes.

Brake pads are categorized into 4 main groups:

Non-metallic – Generally the lowest cost option, these pads are quiet and have a “soft” feel when braking, but can wear quickly and create a lot of brake dust

Semi-metallic – Mid-range option as far as cost and durability. These pads will have a slightly harder feel and will be louder braking than the non-metallic, but will last longer and create less dust

Ceramic – These will be your upgrade or performance option for most passenger vehicles. Ceramic pads will provide more stopping power than the semi- and non-metallic while being extremely quiet with a “soft” feel. These pads do however have a higher cost and are more prone to overheating.

Fully metallic – Fully metallic brake pads are generally only used for race vehicles. They will have a “hard” feel, are loud, and will not be as effective in normal driving conditions as the others. These pads are made to withstand prolonged hard braking at high speeds. Vehicles used for daily driving or commuting should not use this style pad.

Fix My Car - how to replace brake pads

Brake Pads

Rotors

Also known as “Discs” are the flat circular surface that you can sometimes see through your wheel. Disc style brakes are factory equipment in most cars today. If your vehicle is equipped with disc brakes, you have a few options for replacements. * Note: There are some vehicles that do not have rotors, and therefore you would not need to replace. These drum style brake systems are sometimes found in older vehicles and the rear axle of small economy cars*

OEM/ Factory style – These rotors will generally be your lowest cost option and what most economy vehicles are equipped with from the factory. They are commonly made of iron with aluminum centers. OEM style rotors will have a flat surface and can either come solid or vented (they look like 2 solid rotors with a space in the center). Vented rotors are generally used in the front of vehicles as they help to dissipate heat.

Slotted – Slotted, or “grooved” rotors have shallow channels on the surface of the rotor. These channels help to dissipate heat, water, brake dust, and friction gases off of the braking surface while still maintaining their structural integrity and a quiet ride. This makes them a good upgrade options for 4X4s and towing vehicles. Slotted rotors do, however, cause more pad wear and will require pad replacements more often.

Drilled – Drilled rotors are built for performance driving. These rotors have holes drilled through both sides of the rotor, maximizing heat and debris dissipation. Because of the intricacy of these parts, they are generally higher cost than the slotted and factory style options. Drilled rotors are not as strong as slotted or solid rotors and therefore are not good for heavy vehicles or driving styles that require abrupt stopping such as drifting or stunt driving.

Ceramic – Similar to the ceramic pads, ceramic rotors are considered your high-end upgrade or performance option. These rotors are corrosion resistant and increased friction efficiency. Ceramic rotors will be more expensive than most iron based options.

Fix My Car - how to replace rotor brakes

Clockwise from top left: OEM/Factory style rotors; Slotted rotors; Drilled rotors; Ceramic rotors.

Selecting the correct pads and rotors based off of your driving style and vehicle will increase brake life as well as your safety. It is important to understand how each of these components work separately as well as in tandem with one another. If you have questions it’s advised that you seek the advice of a professional prior to purchasing replacements.

Filed Under: Mechanics

Bulb Options for Headlights

August 21, 2015 By Richard Reina 1 Comment

Here are three things to consider when choosing a headlight bulb:We have probably all experienced this before: you are driving down a street at night and you notice that the road in front of your vehicle is not as lit as it normally is. You pull over and notice that one of your headlight bulbs is no longer on. This is both a legal and safety concern.

Regular vehicle maintenance is a necessity if you own a vehicle and can be costly. This does not mean, however, that you always need to seek out a repair shop or visit the dealership. There are many simple maintenance jobs that you can do yourself with a little bit of knowledge. Here are three things to consider when choosing a headlight bulb:

Type of blub

Halogen. Halogen bulbs are the most common type of bulb used for automotive headlights. They are a filament style bulb, similar to those you would find in a house lamp. Halogen bulbs are low maintenance and generally are the least expensive option.

HID/ Xenon. HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs

HID/ Xenon. HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs entered the automotive industry in the mid- 1990s and are becoming an increasingly popular factory option for mid-high end vehicles like BMW, Mercedes, and Audi. Unlike halogen, HID bulbs do not have a filament. Instead their light comes from the ignition of xenon gas within the glass. Compared to a halogen bulb, HIDs offer substantially increased lumens (brightness), a statistically longer use life, and require less wattage while running. If your vehicle came equipped with HID bulbs then your replacement bulb will also have to be an HID. If your vehicle did not come with factory HID bulbs you can switch your bulbs by purchasing a conversion kit. Because HID bulbs require a different electrical current than your vehicle produces, a ballast is required with these bulbs. Most of these conversion kits are “plug and play” and are an easy to moderate DIY project.

Hid Light Bulb - Car Mechanics

LED. LEDs (Light emitting diodes) are the newest technology for headlight bulbs, but LED technology has been around since the mid- 1900’s. In the automotive industry, LEDs are commonly used in “non-projection applications” such as interior lights, license plate lights, and taillights. They have only recently been configured for use in projection applications like headlights. Unlike halogen bulbs, LEDs do not require a ballast, or any other special wiring. Also, because they are a diode they are much more durable than both the halogen and HID bulbs. Similar to the HID bulbs, there are conversion kits if your vehicle does not have LEDs as a factory equipment. LEDs are generally your most expensive bulb option.


LED Light Bulb - Car Mechanics

Wattage

Headlight bulbs do come in different wattages. The higher the wattage the more lumens a bulb will put out. Standard halogen replacement bulbs are generally 55 watt for most vehicles while HID bulbs run at around 35 watts. Increasing the wattage bulb that you use will increase brightness, however because you can easily blind oncoming traffic, some states have restrictions on the maximum wattage your headlight can be. Also, the more you increase the wattage of your bulb, the more strain you are putting on your vehicles electrical system, which may cause bulbs to sometimes dim or wires to overheat when used for long periods.

Kelvin Rating

Kelvin rating, in terms of bulbs, will determine what color light your headlights will emit. Lower Kelvin ratings (2,500K to 3,500K) will look yellow, 3,800 – 4,000 will look white, and then the higher kelvin will turn blue (6,000K – 10,000K) then eventually purple (12,00K). Kelvin rating has no effect on brightness, but the change in color may make it appear that higher wattage blue/ purple bulbs are not as bright as the mid-range bulbs. For both legality and safety reasons most street legal headlight bulbs will be available in the 3,400K to 5,000K range.

Kelvin Rating - Light Bulbs

 

 

3 Things to Consider When Choosing a Headlight Bulb

Filed Under: Mechanics

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