What comes to mind when you hear the term “automotive performance?” Most people, auto enthusiast or not, will think of big crate engines, superchargers and turbos, flame throwing exhaust, and maybe even suspension components. But what about brakes? All of that extra “go” will be useless if you can’t stop. Most of us will know it’s time to replace our brakes when one of two things happen:

• Your service mechanic tells you after completing an oil change, tire rotation, or similar job
• As you approach a red light you hear that notorious squeal that announces to you and everyone in a 2 block radius that the time has come

But the term “brake job” can mean many things depending on your vehicle, driving style, and how often you maintain your brakes. And just like the vast selection of air intakes, tuners, and other performance parts, there is a large variety of replacement and performance brake components.

Replacement vs. Performance

The first thing to determine is what you need. Are you looking to repair a commuter car or replace brakes on a non-modified vehicle? If so replacement brake parts will be a lower cost compared to performance parts and just as effective for normal driving. If your vehicle has some engine modifications, you like to drive on winding mountain roads, or you do a lot of towing, then you should possibly consider upgrading your brakes. In either case, the two main components will be the same: pads and rotors.

Complete Break Kit – Original Equipment

Complete Break Kit – Performance

Brake Pads

Brake pads are arguably the most important part of your vehicle braking system. As you apply your brake pedal they compress and create friction, causing your vehicle to stop. Whether your vehicle’s brakes are disc or drum style, you should purchase new pads each time you service your brakes.

Brake pads are categorized into 4 main groups:

Non-metallic – Generally the lowest cost option, these pads are quiet and have a “soft” feel when braking, but can wear quickly and create a lot of brake dust

Semi-metallic – Mid-range option as far as cost and durability. These pads will have a slightly harder feel and will be louder braking than the non-metallic, but will last longer and create less dust

Ceramic – These will be your upgrade or performance option for most passenger vehicles. Ceramic pads will provide more stopping power than the semi- and non-metallic while being extremely quiet with a “soft” feel. These pads do however have a higher cost and are more prone to overheating.

Fully metallic – Fully metallic brake pads are generally only used for race vehicles. They will have a “hard” feel, are loud, and will not be as effective in normal driving conditions as the others. These pads are made to withstand prolonged hard braking at high speeds. Vehicles used for daily driving or commuting should not use this style pad.

Brake Pads

Rotors

Also known as “Discs” are the flat circular surface that you can sometimes see through your wheel. Disc style brakes are factory equipment in most cars today. If your vehicle is equipped with disc brakes, you have a few options for replacements. * Note: There are some vehicles that do not have rotors, and therefore you would not need to replace. These drum style brake systems are sometimes found in older vehicles and the rear axle of small economy cars*

OEM/ Factory style – These rotors will generally be your lowest cost option and what most economy vehicles are equipped with from the factory. They are commonly made of iron with aluminum centers. OEM style rotors will have a flat surface and can either come solid or vented (they look like 2 solid rotors with a space in the center). Vented rotors are generally used in the front of vehicles as they help to dissipate heat.

Slotted – Slotted, or “grooved” rotors have shallow channels on the surface of the rotor. These channels help to dissipate heat, water, brake dust, and friction gases off of the braking surface while still maintaining their structural integrity and a quiet ride. This makes them a good upgrade options for 4X4s and towing vehicles. Slotted rotors do, however, cause more pad wear and will require pad replacements more often.

Drilled – Drilled rotors are built for performance driving. These rotors have holes drilled through both sides of the rotor, maximizing heat and debris dissipation. Because of the intricacy of these parts, they are generally higher cost than the slotted and factory style options. Drilled rotors are not as strong as slotted or solid rotors and therefore are not good for heavy vehicles or driving styles that require abrupt stopping such as drifting or stunt driving.

Ceramic – Similar to the ceramic pads, ceramic rotors are considered your high-end upgrade or performance option. These rotors are corrosion resistant and increased friction efficiency. Ceramic rotors will be more expensive than most iron based options.

Clockwise from top left: OEM/Factory style rotors; Slotted rotors; Drilled rotors; Ceramic rotors.

Selecting the correct pads and rotors based off of your driving style and vehicle will increase brake life as well as your safety. It is important to understand how each of these components work separately as well as in tandem with one another. If you have questions it’s advised that you seek the advice of a professional prior to purchasing replacements.

We have probably all experienced this before: you are driving down a street at night and you notice that the road in front of your vehicle is not as lit as it normally is. You pull over and notice that one of your headlight bulbs is no longer on. This is both a legal and safety concern.

Regular vehicle maintenance is a necessity if you own a vehicle and can be costly. This does not mean, however, that you always need to seek out a repair shop or visit the dealership. There are many simple maintenance jobs that you can do yourself with a little bit of knowledge. Here are three things to consider when choosing a headlight bulb:

Type of blub

Halogen. Halogen bulbs are the most common type of bulb used for automotive headlights. They are a filament style bulb, similar to those you would find in a house lamp. Halogen bulbs are low maintenance and generally are the least expensive option.

HID/ Xenon. HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs entered the automotive industry in the mid- 1990s and are becoming an increasingly popular factory option for mid-high end vehicles like BMW, Mercedes, and Audi. Unlike halogen, HID bulbs do not have a filament. Instead their light comes from the ignition of xenon gas within the glass. Compared to a halogen bulb, HIDs offer substantially increased lumens (brightness), a statistically longer use life, and require less wattage while running. If your vehicle came equipped with HID bulbs then your replacement bulb will also have to be an HID. If your vehicle did not come with factory HID bulbs you can switch your bulbs by purchasing a conversion kit. Because HID bulbs require a different electrical current than your vehicle produces, a ballast is required with these bulbs. Most of these conversion kits are “plug and play” and are an easy to moderate DIY project.

LED. LEDs (Light emitting diodes) are the newest technology for headlight bulbs, but LED technology has been around since the mid- 1900’s. In the automotive industry, LEDs are commonly used in “non-projection applications” such as interior lights, license plate lights, and taillights. They have only recently been configured for use in projection applications like headlights. Unlike halogen bulbs, LEDs do not require a ballast, or any other special wiring. Also, because they are a diode they are much more durable than both the halogen and HID bulbs. Similar to the HID bulbs, there are conversion kits if your vehicle does not have LEDs as a factory equipment. LEDs are generally your most expensive bulb option.

Wattage

Headlight bulbs do come in different wattages. The higher the wattage the more lumens a bulb will put out. Standard halogen replacement bulbs are generally 55 watt for most vehicles while HID bulbs run at around 35 watts. Increasing the wattage bulb that you use will increase brightness, however because you can easily blind oncoming traffic, some states have restrictions on the maximum wattage your headlight can be. Also, the more you increase the wattage of your bulb, the more strain you are putting on your vehicles electrical system, which may cause bulbs to sometimes dim or wires to overheat when used for long periods.

Kelvin Rating

Kelvin rating, in terms of bulbs, will determine what color light your headlights will emit. Lower Kelvin ratings (2,500K to 3,500K) will look yellow, 3,800 – 4,000 will look white, and then the higher kelvin will turn blue (6,000K – 10,000K) then eventually purple (12,00K). Kelvin rating has no effect on brightness, but the change in color may make it appear that higher wattage blue/ purple bulbs are not as bright as the mid-range bulbs. For both legality and safety reasons most street legal headlight bulbs will be available in the 3,400K to 5,000K range.

A bad fuel pressure regulator will waste the gasoline you put in your car’s tank by letting too much fuel into the engine, or starve the engine by not providing it with enough fuel. In most cases, you will notice the engine is hard to start, idles rough and has poor performance. However, testing a fuel pressure regulator is an easy and useful skill you can incorporate into your car maintenance program.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Troubleshooting

Here we will deal with fuel regulators for Electronic Fuel Injection Systems (EFI), found on most cars. All you need is a fuel pressure gauge you can buy at most auto parts stores and some common tools you might already have in your toolbox.

1. Determine the type of fuel line disconnects your vehicle has and whether a test port-Schrader valve, similar to a tire air valve-is provided on the fuel line or rail, usually next to the fuel pressure regulator. This information will tell you whether you can hook the regulator gauge through the valve or the fuel line with the use of a T-shape adapter. You can find these adapters at most auto parts stores.

2. Relief the pressure on the fuel lines. The easiest way to do this is by depressing the needle in the center of the Schrader valve. Use a small screwdriver wrapped in a shop rag to catch the squirt of fuel. If a Schrader valve is not provided, remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box. Start the engine and let if idle for a few seconds until the fuel in the line is consumed and the engine stalls. Replace the fuse in the fuse box.

3. Screw the fuel pressure gauge extension hose on the Schrader valve or install it in the fuel inlet line with the necessary adapters.

4. Start the engine and make a note of the pressure indicated by the fuel pressure gauge and compare it with the low and high fuel pressure specifications for your vehicle. You will find these numbers in your vehicle service manual. Shut off the engine.

5. If the pressure readings indicate higher pressure than normal, the fuel pressure regulator is bad.

6. If gauge readings indicate lower pressure than normal, start the engine and block the return fuel line by pinching the hose with a pair of pliers using a shop rag to avoid damage to the fuel hose. Take a note of the fuel pressure gauge reading. If the reading goes to maximum fuel pump pressure, the regulator has failed and needs replacement. If the reading remains low, the fuel pump is not working properly.

If you cannot afford a fuel pressure regulator at this point, you can still rent one at most large auto parts stores. It is worth the effort since this is more than a simple troubleshooting procedure. It will help you find the real problem in the fuel system, but also save you money by improving fuel economy and engine performance on your car. And remember that your service manual will help you to locate specific components in your vehicle and let you know how to disconnect the fuel lines if necessary.

A bad fuel pressure regulator will waste the gasoline you put in your car’s tank by letting too much fuel into the engine, or starve the engine by not providing it with enough fuel. In most cases, you will notice the engine is hard to start, idles rough and has poor performance. However, testing a fuel pressure regulator is an easy and useful skill you can incorporate into your car maintenance program.

Here we will deal with fuel regulators for Electronic Fuel Injection Systems (EFI), found on most cars. All you need is a fuel pressure gauge you can buy at most auto parts stores and some common tools you might already have in your toolbox.

1. Determine the type of fuel line disconnects your vehicle has and whether a test port-Schrader valve, similar to a tire air valve-is provided on the fuel line or rail, usually next to the fuel pressure regulator. This information will tell you whether you can hook the regulator gauge through the valve or the fuel line with the use of a T-shape adapter. You can find these adapters at most auto parts stores.

2. Relief the pressure on the fuel lines. The easiest way to do this is by depressing the needle in the center of the Schrader valve. Use a small screwdriver wrapped in a shop rag to catch the squirt of fuel. If a Schrader valve is not provided, remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box. Start the engine and let if idle for a few seconds until the fuel in the line is consumed and the engine stalls. Replace the fuse in the fuse box.

3. Screw the fuel pressure gauge extension hose on the Schrader valve or install it in the fuel inlet line with the necessary adapters.

4. Start the engine and make a note of the pressure indicated by the fuel pressure gauge and compare it with the low and high fuel pressure specifications for your vehicle. You will find these numbers in your vehicle service manual. Shut off the engine.

5. If the pressure readings indicate higher pressure than normal, the fuel pressure regulator is bad.

6. If gauge readings indicate lower pressure than normal, start the engine and block the return fuel line by pinching the hose with a pair of pliers using a shop rag to avoid damage to the fuel hose. Take a note of the fuel pressure gauge reading. If the reading goes to maximum fuel pump pressure, the regulator has failed and needs replacement. If the reading remains low, the fuel pump is not working properly.

If you cannot afford a fuel pressure regulator at this point, you can still rent one at most large auto parts stores. It is worth the effort since this is more than a simple troubleshooting procedure. It will help you find the real problem in the fuel system, but also save you money by improving fuel economy and engine performance on your car. And remember that your service manual will help you to locate specific components in your vehicle and let you know how to disconnect the fuel lines if necessary.

Troubleshoot the PCV Valve System and Avoid Premature Engine Wear

If for whatever reason you must store a car for a long period of time, you cannot leave the battery connected like you normally would. Instead, you must take steps to store the battery so that it continues to work and doesn’t end up damaging the car as it sits. If possible, have someone drive the car for half an hour at least once a month if you can, since that will make storing the battery completely unnecessary.

Before you begin, you must be properly equipped. You will need a wrench to remove the battery. Also, wear clothing that you wouldn’t mind be ruined, just in case. The final piece of preparation is to wear protective goggles and heavy gloves, just in case the battery’s fluids discharge.

The first thing you must do is disconnect and remove the battery from the car. This means you must disconnect the negative or black cable first, then the positive cable. If your car has a tie-down for the battery, you must remove that as well before lifting the battery out of the car.

With the battery out of the car, you must inspect it thoroughly. Look over the entire case, including on the sides, top, bottom and corners for any signs of damage. Pay particularly close attention to signs of fluid leaking out of the battery. If the battery seems to be in good shape, pour baking soda over any areas with corrosion, like the terminals, and then pour on some water and use a wire brush to remove any leftover corrosion.

If the battery has filler caps, check the fluid level in each one. Top them off with distilled water if the level is below what’s recommended. Hook the battery up to a charger. Once the battery is fully charged, check the fluid levels again and top them off if necessary.

Place the battery in a cool, dry area. Choose somewhere the battery will be free from freezing temperatures before you reinstall it in the car. Hook up the battery to a tender to help it keep a charge while it sits. When it is time to use the car again, remove the charger and install the battery back in the vehicle.

Locating a fault on your car starting system can drive you crazy and consume whatever free time you might have. And yet, there are only a few starting system related problems that show up time and again which may involve the starter motor, starter solenoid, starter relay, battery, starting circuit and even the ignition switch. This guide will help you pinpoint the area or component most likely to be at fault using a quick and easy method many professional mechanics use.

1. Dead Headlights

Turn on the headlights and ask a friend to turn the ignition key to start. Watch the headlights and listen for any sounds coming from the engine compartment. If the headlights do not come on and you cannot hear any sounds, you might have either a dead battery or a bad connection in the starting circuit system.

Check the connections at the battery terminals, starter solenoid and starter motor. Other possible causes: a starter relay may have failed; a short circuit may have caused a fusible link or main fuse to open; and, although less common, a main wire from the starting system connecting to the fuse box may be loose or disconnected.

2. Headlights Go Out

If the headlights go out as your friend tries to start the engine, your battery may be undercharged and unable to provide the necessary current to the starter motor; the starter motor may have developed a short and is drawing more current than the battery can handle.

Make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condition and the starter motor is working properly. Many national auto parts stores will check the battery and starter motor free of charge for you.

3. Headlights Stay Bright

If the headlights remain bright while the engine cranks slowly, one of the starting circuit components is failing or there is an open or bad connection in the starting system.

Check the starter solenoid, battery and starter connections, starter relay or ignition switch.

4. Weird Noises

If you can hear a click, buzzing, humming or grinding noise coming from the engine compartment as you try to start the engine, there might be a bad solenoid, starter motor, weak battery or bad connection in the starting system.

Just remember that if your car engine cranks up as it should but fails to start, your problem might not be in the starting system. Depending on your experience and the results of your tests, you may want to go ahead and try to fix the problem yourself or call an auto technician. Nevertheless, this guide will help you make a better informed decision, save you time and money, and take whatever measures necessary to maintain the starting system in your car in good shape for a longer period of time.