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How to Get the Best Electric Vehicles Performance in Winter

June 28, 2021 By Leave a Comment

For the electric vehicles to find more acceptances among the car users, they must be able to do everything a gas run car is able to do. This includes the electric vehicles performance in winter must be the same as their gas based counterparts. These electric vehicles must be able to work well even in extreme temperatures and carry their occupants in full comfort. In the past the electric vehicles in cold weather were not able to give good performance and they lost their ability to run their full range in the cold weather. The drivers of these vehicles were also not used to the ways of running this plug-ins in the cold weather.

Though many improvements have taken place in the present day electric vehicles still you have to take more effort and know many things and adhere to certain operating procedures to get better performance from the electric vehicles in cold weather. If your electric car’s range is less than 100 miles then you are likely to face more problems during winter. You have to fine tune your driving abilities and be very careful in paying attention to your electric vehicle to successfully get its good performance during peak winter months.

Following are some of the tips that will help you get better electric vehicles performance winter by enhancing the power of your car’s battery as well as to get more out of the battery life:

  • Pay attention to the climate control: the climate control inside your car is very important during the cold winter months. Your car will be spending more energy to get the heat required for keeping the passenger cabin warm, and more battery power is required to do this in the absence of inherent heat available from an internal combustion engine. To prevent more battery drain for heating you have to heat your car before you start keeping the car connected to the charging point. This will make your car warm from the mains supply and even after your car has become warm your batteries will still be full. You will be spending only less power to maintain the warmth during your journey. You can also go for heated seats that consume less power than heating the entire cabin. To reduce the need to heat the interior of your car, you can travel with layered clothing so that you stay at higher comfort level even if the cabin is not at its optimum heating range.
  • Pay attention to the place of parking and charging : it is an admitted fact that the battery of an EV loses much of its range when it is parked in sub- zero temperature as well as when it is charged exposed to extreme temperatures. So, if you want to increase the electric vehicles performance in winter pays close attention to the place of parking as well as to the place where you are charging it.
  • Make adjustments to your driving habits: Good driving habits are necessary to get the better out of your electric vehicle in cold weather. Rapid acceleration and frequent braking drains your batteries very fast. So, try to keep a steady pace and it is the best way to get good performance from your electric vehicle in winter.
  • Maintain your EV car properly: to get best out of your EV during winter you have to maintain your vehicle in good condition and this includes checking air pressure often and keep it at recommended levels for better performance.
  • Reduce weight: more weight needs more power and if you want to get good electric vehicles performance in winter make your car as lighter as possible and this can be achieved by removing the unwanted and unneeded accessories to reduce the overall weight and this will definitely give your car a better performance during winter.

Thus, follow certain good driving habits and pay close attention to the maintenance schedule of your EV to assure yourself of a good electric vehicles performance in winter.

Filed Under: Mechanics Tagged With: Karma Automotive, Tesla

VIA Motors the Right Way to Get Your Vehicles Electrified

June 28, 2021 By Leave a Comment

VIA Motors is an innovator in the automobile industry with their specialized capability to produce electrified versions of all your favorite vans and work vehicles. They are well versed in the ways of making our planet clean and green with their initiatives in producing the most economical and cleanest vehicles. VIA Motors is one of the most popular choices for getting factory new electrified versions of your trucks, vans and other work vehicles

The vehicles from VIA Motors the VTrux and the electrified vans are known for the convenience, and comfort of working with electric vehicles. The VTrux is a revolutionary design in as much as it can run on full electricity for 40 miles which is usually enough for a day’s work on most of the days. In case you want to drive your VTrux more than that you can drive it up to 400 miles in one filling of gas. The fuel economy comes to about 100 miles per gallon and it has an on board range extender to recharge itself.

The VTrux is powered by eREV power train that gives a clean and emission free driving force for all your vans and light trucks.  The VTrux is able to give more mileage as it is designed with an optimized battery pack and can generate its own electricity during long trips increasing the fuel efficiency when compared with the gas model.

The VIA Motors VTrux comes with an innovative charging mechanism that gives complete charge to the battery pack in almost half the charging time when you charge it through a 240 Volt Outlet or a charging station. The VTrux only takes $2 worth of electricity for a full recharge and it comes to only about 5 cents a mile besides giving a federal tax credit of $7500 and also makes you eligible for getting thousands of dollars worth of additional fuel credits for using clean and green energy.

VIA Motors has gone one step further in adding more utility to the Power train on your VTrux as it can be used as an external mobile power source at home or at your workplace. The 240 volt outlets at the rear of the VTrux give easy access to dependable power in the range of 14.4 kW at 60 amps. VIA Motors has announced that soon they are going to introduce power units capable of giving 50 kW of mobile emergency power in their future models.

Apart from VTrux, VIA Motors also gives electrified vans with different configurations for passenger, Cargo as well as for utility purposes. The electrified vehicles of VIA Motors are powered by an optimized pack of 23 kWh Liquid cooled Lithium Ion batteries. These electrified vehicles take away the range anxiety out of your mind as they have virtually unlimited range as they come with power to run for very long distances of up to 400 miles or more when you are planning to go on long trips.

The innovative onboard fuel efficient electric generator is able to add more miles to your travel without compromising much on the advantages of an electric vehicle.

Thus, you can rely on VIA Motors for electrifying your trucks and work vehicles and they are the best way to save more money as well as going green with a zero emission vehicle.

References:

  • Wikipedia VIA Motors
  • VIA Motors Corporate Website

Filed Under: Mechanics Tagged With: VIA Motors

Here’s What Happens to Your Car in a Flood and What to Do About It

May 11, 2020 By Chaya Milchtein Leave a Comment

Car In A Flood What to Do?

If you’ve ever gone to purchase a car you may have gotten this advice. “Don’t buy a car from ____________ state because they recently had a lot of flooding.” But what does flooding actually do to a car? What kind of damage can it cause and is it really that bad?

I can never forget the 2004 Toyota Avalon that came to a dealership I worked in several years ago. The car had a starting problem, the deeper we dug the more problems we found. After weeks of electrical diagnosis, wiring repairs and replacement that customer decided to give up on this car. It was a car he had purchased after hurricane Sandy. With less than 75,000 miles he thought he was getting a deal of a lifetime. Instead, he ended up with a flood car that merely months after buying it was a useless hunk of metal.

Some of the Bigger Problems Flooding Can Cause:

Corrosion

It may take a few years for corrosion to surface on flood vehicles because it starts from the inside out. As most cause have high quantities of steel in them, corrosion can occur on just about anything. It can start on the inside of panels and eat away at the steel only for you to finally see it a few years later. Saltwater is especially notorious for this, but large quantities of fresh water have similar effects.

Electrical Problems

Wiring and water don’t mix well. Flood water can get into computers, sensors and other electrical components and start to cause problems. Some of these problems could take a long time to discover and may be tricky as they present themselves as other failures.

Mechanical Systems Seizing

Water lodges itself in all the little nooks and crannies. Water in compressors, pumps and other systems will cause failure sooner than later. Flood water in bearings and brakes can cause safety related failures as well.

Mold

When a car is saturated in water, it often causes mold to develop. This mold can be found in the trucks of cars, in seat cushions, under mats and even on the headliner. Even a little bit of toxic mold can make a car non operable and if repairing it is even possible it will cost thousands of dollars.

Engine Hydrolock

Even a little water in the combustion chamber can cause the engine to seize and fail costing you thousands for dollars. If there is water in the oil system, coolant system, air filters or any other part that’s part of the system delivering fluids, air or power to the engine you run the very rapid risk of hydro lock.

Here Are Some of the Fundamentals You Should Know If Your Car Was in a Flood:

  • Don’t start your car! As I described above, even a little water in the wrong area of the car could cause irreversible damage. Don’t risk it and instead have the vehicle towed if you are considering repairs.
  • Check your insurance paperwork. Most cars with water levels above the lower rocker will be considered total losses. If you have comprehensive coverage, this means that you’ll likely receive a pay out and need to start looking for a new vehicle. Carefully of course.
  • Open the windows and use a wet / dry vacuum to begin to dry out the interior. The faster you get the interior dry the better.
  • Connect with your mechanic and see if they are willing to inspect your car. Not every shop or mechanic will be willing to invest the time and reassures needed to deal with a flood car. If you plan on trying to salvage it you’ll water a qualified mechanic on your team.

Even if you do everything right your flood vehicle may likely not be salvageable. Sometimes you may have to take a step back and decide to go ahead and purchase another vehicle instead of risk investing money into one that might not work long term. Since some of the problems on a flooded vehicle might not be found for years, you might decide it’s just no longer worth the time or money needed.

 

Filed Under: Mechanics

How Does Regenerative Braking Work

April 29, 2017 By Leave a Comment

How Does Regenerative Braking Work

Braking is an essential part of motoring and the latest in the braking technology is the regenerative braking.  To understand it fully you must know how regenerative braking works. While you are driving your car, every time you step on the brake pedal you are wasting energy by way of losing the kinetic energy that is used to move your car forward. As energy can neither be created nor destroyed a form of energy is converted into another form of energy.  Usually kinetic energy is converted into heat energy in the ordinary cars.

In the present day electric vehicles the primary concern of the engineers is to keep the battery charged at all times in all possible manners. Towards this the regenerative braking system has been designed to put more power into the batteries whenever you apply brakes in your electric vehicle. When you study how does the regenerative braking system works you will be surprised to find the same electric motors that move your car forward by taking power from the batteries give back power to them acting as a generator whenever you apply brake.

By using the regenerative braking system you can easily recapture much of the car’s kinetic energy and is converted into electricity and this is sent back to the battery to add to the mileage range of the electric car. This type of regenerative braking system is found in most of the high end electric vehicles and the best part of the system is that it is becoming more popular now. This technology is being extended even to the electric bicycles and even in Formula one race cars.

By knowing how does a regenerative braking works you can easily understand, that this system is totally different from the conventional braking system we find in the oil run vehicles. The traditional braking system uses brake pads to increase friction with the moving parts of the wheels of the vehicles to reduce the speed or stop it altogether. Additional friction develops between the slowing down wheel and the surface of the road and this leads to the generation of heat.

But in the regenerative braking system the braking is done with the use of the same motors or the power train that drives the wheels of the electric wheel. When you press the brake pedal in the electric vehicle the driving motor itself brings in the braking effort by just changing the direction of rotation of the   motor and makes it run in reverse direction thereby dragging the wheels and making them reduce speed or come to a halt. During this reverse motion the motor that was drawing power from the batteries generate electricity just like a generator and this electricity is fed into the batteries and stored for use.

Though, this is a simple schematic description of how does regenerative braking system works, it uses many related technologies to bring in more braking power as well as capture more electricity for the batteries to get charged every time you are applying the brakes. In case of a hybrid vehicle or an all electric vehicle these regenerative brakes work more efficiently at certain situations and at certain speeds and to avoid unnecessary panic in drivers back up friction based brakes are also available in certain vehicles.

In the present day electric cars the regenerative braking system has advanced much and the driver is given more options to select which type of braking must be used in a given situation. Advancements in electronics have made it possible for the driver to have a variety of options to make use of this advanced braking system in an efficient manner. However it is necessary that you must know how does regenerative braking system works to use it in the best way and achieve better recharging of your batteries even when you are driving your electric vehicle.

Filed Under: Mechanics Tagged With: Tesla

Selecting an EVSE Home Charger that is Right for Your Electric Vehicle

February 13, 2017 By Jeff Hudnut 1 Comment

Selecting a Home EVSE Charger that is Right for Your Electric Vehicle

As the number of electric vehicles on the road continues to increase, access to charging systems has also grown substantially. Being the owner of a plug-in electric vehicle has become even easier, especially with the convenience of home charging.

If you own or are considering purchasing an electric vehicle, selecting the right charging station to charge your car at home is an important decision. There are major considerations to take into account when choosing a home charger. Do you want a hard-wired of plug-in system? Would you want it installed inside or outside of your home? How long will you need the charging cable to be?

For ease of use, a charging station like the new Bosch Power Max 2 offers Wi-Fi connectivity, USB data storage and power metering as well as an on/off switch to save energy when not in use.

Where should I start?

The first thing you should do is make sure you understand the level of charging necessary for your car. Home chargers typically come in two categories, Level 1 (110 V) and Level 2 (240 V). In terms of incremental charging, Level 1 chargers provide 3-4 miles of charge per hour and Level 2 chargers provide 12-30 miles of charge per hour, nearly four times faster on average.

A key factor is whether or not the charging station will be able to fully charge your car overnight or faster. Level 2 charging stations vary in amperages typically ranging from 16 to 40 amps. Level 2 stations will charge your vehicle faster than Level 1, but there is a limit as some vehicles have a maximum amperage they’ll accept. This means you’ll need to know the maximum amperage of your car.

What is my car’s maximum amperage?

The amperage is the level of electric current at which your vehicle charges. Electric vehicles cannot accept a charge in excess of what they are capable of receiving. To determine your car’s amperage, review the owner’s manual for your vehicle and look for a charging station that supports that current.

What amperage station do I need?

After you have determined the level of charge your vehicle can take, you will need to match your charge station amperage with the maximum amperage of the vehicle. For example, if your vehicle can take a max of 16 amps, then a 40-amp station is more than your vehicle requires.

Selecting a station with greater amperage than your current vehicle can accept is called future proofing, which means that the charging station you choose now will still be compatible with your future EVs down the road.

How much electrical capacity do I have in my home? 

Once you have narrowed down the type of charging station you need, you’ll need to confirm that your house has either a 110-volt or a 240-volt breaker, which are the required capacities for a level 1 and level 2 home charging system, respectively. If you are unsure or unable to determine the electrical capacity in your home, refer to an experienced electrician.

Does location matter when installing my charging station?

You’ll want to install it in the location that is most convenient to charge your vehicle. For outside installation, ensure your charging station has a weather-resistant NEMA 3R rating at minimum. Some units offer 18- or 25- foot cable lengths, so consider how far you’ll need to extend the cable in advance. There’s a good possibility an electrician will have to run conduit depending upon placement, and the longer length will raise the installation cost. Convenience is key because you’ll plug in your car each night to charge.

What features are important when buying a charger?

Charging stations on the market offer a variety of options. The most important features to consider include cord length, weather resistance for indoor/outdoor use, network connectivity and weight.

Movable and permanently mounted home stations charge at the same rate, so selecting one depends on your personal preference. Movable units such as the Bosch Power Max 2 provide more flexibility, so if the time comes when you move, embark on a road trip, or decide to relocate your EVSE, you can take it with you.

I’m ready to install my ESVE charger. Now what?

Once you find the charging station that suits your personal needs, contact an experienced electrician for installation. You will need a dedicated circuit for your charging equipment. Your EVSE supplier or car dealer may be able to recommend a qualified electrician if you need assistance.

Selecting an EVSE Home Charger that is Right for Your Electric Vehicle

Filed Under: Mechanics

Protect Your Cars Value by Protecting Your Cars Interior

August 1, 2016 By Richard Reina Leave a Comment

Protect Your Cars Value by Protecting Your Cars Interior

Every time we get in our car and head down the road, we put ourselves at risk for dings, dents, and who knows what else. Even when our cars are parked we can fall victim to hail, sun damage, and the dreaded fly-by bird droppings. As car lovers, we do everything we can to protect and maintain the exterior of our vehicles to ensure they stay looking shiny and new. So why wouldn’t we do that with the interior too?

Many of us think that the inside of our cars remain protected because well, they’re inside. But what we forget is that our interiors are subjected to just as much abuse as the exterior, and without a proper care plan in place, can be damaged quite quickly. The sun coming through your windshield isn’t just making your seats hot; it’s fading your interior. And that coffee spill? That’s a stain that will stay forever.

We could all do a better job of protecting the interiors of our cars to ensure maximum comfort and longevity. Follow these simple tips and your interior will remain as cherry as your exterior.

Windshield sun shades.

We all know how stifling it can be to sit in your car on a hot summer day and wait for the air conditioner to do its job. When the temperature outside gets to be 80 degrees or more, the temperature inside a car that’s sitting in direct sunlight can quickly rise to 130 degrees or higher.

One way to remedy that is by blocking out direct entry points where sunlight gets through with windshield sun shades. Most are in universal small, medium, and large sizes, but there are also vehicle-specific sun shades that ensure ultimate protection.

Dash and rear deck covers.

Heat isn’t the only byproduct of direct sunlight coming through the windows of your car. Even when temperatures aren’t high, the sun can damage your interior – specifically your dashboard and rear decks, which are most exposed through your front and read windshields.

The sun can fade and crack dash tops – especially dark-colored ones that absorb light even more – but a solid set of dash and rear deck covers will keep these areas cool and protected.

Floor mats.

It’s important to remember that floor mats protect our interiors from more than just rain and snow. If you camp or frequent the beach, you’re dragging dirt and sand into your interior. Just walking outside before getting into your car can bring gravel or grass inside as well. Combined with how often our mats shift around from getting in and out, it’s too easy for our carpets to get damaged.

“All-weather” style mats, though usually associated with cold weather, are equally effective in protecting carpeting in the summer. That’s why they are called “all-weather!” These will stay in place to collect water, dirt, and whatever else you can throw at them, while also protecting your carpet from the wear and tear of your feet.

Protect Your Cars Value by Protecting Your Cars InteriorKeep upholstery clean.

Easier said than done, right? We’ve all had that nightmare moment when the hamburger we were eating falls and the ketchup/mustard is smeared all over the seat. Since we’re driving, we usually can’t get to it right away and then it gets forgotten about.

Stains may become baked onto surfaces, and will be harder to clean if not attended to right away. I’d recommend keeping some sort of fabric cleaner and a little brush in your trunk. That way you can quickly pull over to remove the stain, or at least address it when you reach your destination. No one wants to sit on dried condiments.

Investing in some of these accessories does carry a cost, but it’s far less than what you would pay to reupholster your seats or have your carpets professionally cleaned.

There’s also simple tactics like trying to park in the shade whenever possible, or knocking dirt/sand off your shoes before getting into your car. By taking a few simple steps, and with a small investment, you can ensure the inside of your car remains in great shape for years of driving to come.

Filed Under: Mechanics

How to Get Your Car Ready For the Summer

June 14, 2016 By Richard Reina 1 Comment

 Automobile Car Maintenance Tips

When we think of the best time to give our cars a check-up, most of us would suggest right before winter. There is always a lot of focus on getting cars ready for colder weather, but what goes unnoticed a lot of the time are the crucial maintenance and upgrades our cars need to withstand hot weather. Just like winter weather, extremely warm temperatures also take a large toll on your vehicle’s inner workings.

A lot of the maintenance necessary for summer can be done on your own, which is not only more fun, but it also saves you a lot of money. Here are some things to keep in mind as we head into these summer months:

Check your oil

Higher temperatures require higher oil weight/viscosity. Most new cars run fine year-round on the same viscosity oil, but if you’re driving an older car that’s racked up some significant mileage, it might be helpful to upgrade to a heavier oil to compensate for internal engine wear. However, before making the switch, do your research and make sure your car’s make/model will fare well with heavier/thicker oil in the summer.

Check your battery date

Most worry about their battery dying under the impact of cold weather, but what they don’t realize is that car batteries are more likely to die in the heat of the summer.  If your battery is over three years old, get it tested, or it might be a good idea to get a new unit just as a preventative measure to avoid getting stuck in the unbearable heat.

Top off fluids

Your radiator’s antifreeze does not need replacing every year, but some mechanics may suggest it. The mechanic should first test the fluid using a coolant hydrometer. You can check the coolant level yourself (easy to do at the see-through overflow bottle). If you need to top up, be sure to use a 50/50 mixture for best boil-over protection. Adding too much? Be sure to check for leaks (look for staining around hoses). While you’re under the hood, top up the washer solvent.

Change your air filters

Riding around with dirty filters prevents fresh air from getting to your engine and your interior, which has a lasting effect on your engine’s well-being, along with your fuel economy and your sinuses. Engine air filters are super easy to replace yourself. Consider the washable and reusable ones for better filtration and long-term savings. Don’t forget the cabin air filter, which keeps outside smells and pollens out of your heating and A/C systems.

Consider summer tires

 Summer can be just as taxing on tires as winter, as heat and sunlight break down the rubber more quickly. All-season tires are designed to handle many different conditions, but because it’s a one-size-fits-all there is some compromising. To maximize your year-round driving enjoyment, consider investing in wider wheels and summer tires for warmer months, and having winter tires on skinnier stock rims for colder weather.

Check your AC

Mechanics will try to convince you that you need a full flush and leak-down test every summer to make sure AC is working properly, but your AC is likely fine as long as it’s blowing cold air.

If it’s not, and you’re driving an older car, check to see if your heater control is stuck in the “ON” position, as you may only need a new heater valve. Some cars need nothing more than a “top up” of AC refrigerant once a year. If the top-up doesn’t fix it, ask for a test using pressure gauges, which will diagnose the real problem and avoid unnecessary replacement of parts.

Quick inspection

At least twice a year (just before summer and just before winter), be proactive and check fluid levels, battery terminal connections, belts, hoses, wipers, brakes, tires and lighting to catch small issues before they become big issues.

Following these preventative measures in the weeks leading up to summer will keep your car in good condition all season long and let you take full advantage of all your summer travels!

Car Maintenance Tips

Filed Under: Mechanics

Tire Sizes: What Do All the Numbers and Letters Mean?

January 25, 2016 By Richard Reina 1 Comment

Understanding Tire Sizes

You’ve been told that your vehicle needs tires, and you’re on your way to the tire store. Or maybe not. Perhaps you’re online at any number of web-based tire suppliers. Of course, you know the year, make and model of your vehicle, but you have no idea what size tires are on there now. The current tires might be the ones installed by the factory. Or, they could be the set you bought 5 years ago which are now shot. Maybe you bought your car used and have no idea if what’s on there is correct.

What size tires are you going to buy?

You could go outside and look at the lettering on the sidewall. But it’s (pick one or more) dark/cold/rainy/late. Besides, you can’t find your flashlight. Or, you can’t do this right now because the car’s not here. Your wife/son/unemployed friend borrowed it for the evening. But, the online sites know your tire size, except, when you punch in the vehicle specifics, the screen invites you to “select your tire size from these choices”.

Argghh!

Not to worry. We’re here to help. Really. We are going to walk you through an understanding of all the alpha-numeric characters on a tire’s sidewall so that you can be certain that you’re getting the correct size tires for your car or truck.

First things first: unless you (or a previous owner) have modified your ride with larger wheels or significantly upgraded suspension, we will presume that you need to purchase tires in the same size as the factory used. If you are certain that the current tires are the same size, get that info from the sidewall. If you have doubts, you have other options. Look for the mandated tire pressure decal (it may be in the door jamb, fuel door, or glovebox lid), or look in the vehicle owner’s manual. You can also call the vehicle maker’s Customer Service Department. (They may ask you for the vehicle’s VIN, or Vehicle Identification Number, which you’ll find on a tag on top of the dash, or on your registration papers.)

You should have something very close to a string of alpha-numeric characters like this (the ones in parentheses may not be part of your particular tire’s size):

Understanding Tire Sizes

(A) NNN / NN (A) NN (NN) (A)

Here’s an example of an actual tire size:

P 195 / 65 R 16 95 V

We’ll decipher this coding very shorty. Before we do, here is the most important bit of information in our article: STAY WITH THE ORIGINAL, RECOMMENDED TIRE SIZE FOR YOUR CAR OR TRUCK. THIS SERIES OF LETTERS AND NUMBERS DETERMINES THE OVERALL DIAMETER OF YOUR WHEEL & TIRE COMBINATION. VARYING FROM THIS SIZE CAN AFFECT THE CAR’S HANDLING, BRAKING, SPEEDOMETER ACCURACY, AND OVERALL SAFETY.

You may find that the tire salesperson “recommends” a different size tire, for any number of reasons (price, brand, availability, perceived performance enhancements). Does everyone in fact always use the same size as originally installed? Of course not. But those who venture toward a different size usually have some deeper automotive technical knowledge, and this article is NOT intended for those folks. By giving you the decoding info, we’re arming you with the data to help you intelligently communicate with the tire seller, whether in person, on the phone, or online, during the sales transaction.

Let’s take the tire size above, P 195 / 65 R 15 95V, and assign a position to each character:

1st character = P

2nd character = 195

3rd character = 65

4th character = R

5th character = 15

6th character = 95

7th character = V

Each character is named and deciphered as follows:

1ST character (letter): SERVICE TYPE

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • P = P-metric (also referred to as “passenger”); intended for use on passenger vehicles, including cars, SUVs, minivans, and light trucks.
  • LT = Light Truck; intended for vehicles with heavier cargo or heavier towing capabilities, including heavier-duty pickups, SUVs, and vans.
  • T = Temporary; almost exclusively found on spare tires (so-called mini spares) intended for short term only use.

2nd character (number): TREAD WIDTH

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Measurement across the tire’s tread from sidewall to sidewall
  • Always expressed in millimeters
  • Common examples: 195, 225
  • To convert to inches, divide by 25.4
  • 195mm = 7.7”; 225mm = 8.9”

3rd character (number): ASPECT RATIO

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • The sidewall height (from wheel opening to outer edge of sidewall) expressed as a percentage of tread width
  • Always indicated as “percent”
  • Common examples: 65, 50
  • Example #1: if the tread width is 195mm, and the aspect ratio is 65, the sidewall height = (195 x 65%), or (195 x .65), which equals 126.75mm
  • Example #2: if the tread width is 225mm, and the aspect ratio is 50, the sidewall height = (225 x 50%), or (225 x .50), which equals 112.5mm
  • To convert to inches, divide by 25.4
  • 75mm = 5”; 112.5mm = 4.4”

4th character (letter): TIRE CONSTRUCTION

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indication of the way the tire’s internal plies and belts are arranged
  • Most commonly found: “R” for “radial” tire (likely the case with 99.5% of new tires sold)
  • Also found (but rare):
    • “D” for “diagonal” (bias ply);
    • “B” for “belted” (additional belts under the tread)

5th character (number): WHEEL SIZE

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indicates the diameter of the wheel, or rim
  • Always expressed in inches
  • Common examples: 15, 16, 18
  • Also indicates the size of the hole in the middle of the tire
  • The tire’s “wheel size” and the diameter of the wheel MUST MATCH

6th character (number): LOAD INDEX

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indicates the weight that a car is rated to carry
  • Always expressed as a 2-digit number
  • Conversion chart must be referenced to equate the load index to pounds
  • Examples: 91; 95
  • A load index of “91” equates to 1356 lb. per tire (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • A load index of “95” equates to 1521 lb. per tire (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • Never purchase tires with a lower load index than originally equipped!

7th character (letter): SPEED RATING

Understanding Tire Sizes and What the Numbers and Letters Mean

  • Indicates the maximum speed that the vehicle is rated to travel on these tires
  • Always expressed as a single letter
  • Conversion chart must be referenced to equate the speed rating to MPH
  • Examples: S; V
  • A speed rating of “S” equates to 112 MPH / 180 KPH (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • A speed rating of “V” equates to 149 MPH / 240 KPH (at maximum allowed pressure)
  • Never purchase tires with a lower speed rating than originally equipped!

What should you do with all this information? Print this out (or access it on your mobile device) as a reference guide. If you’re offered tires in the EXACT same size, load index, and speed rating as your original equipment (OE) tires, you’re there. (Information on selecting a brand, quality level, and tread design are for a future article.) If you are offered a tire that’s “almost the same size” (perhaps the aspect ratio is a larger number) and you’re told “it’s close enough”, STOP. That is not true. Either insist on the correct size tire, or find another retailer who has the sizes you need. Any change in tread width, aspect ratio, load index or speed rating will affect the way your vehicle drives, and could seriously affect the safety of everyone who rides with you. There are enough reputable dealers out there to allow you to find someone who understands, as you now do, that the only correct tires for your car are the right-sized tires.

Understanding Tire Sizes
 

Filed Under: Mechanics

Performance Exhaust Kits Can Give You the Sound, Power, and Looks You Want

December 4, 2015 By Richard Reina 3 Comments

Learn about Performance Exhaust KitsWhether you have an older ride that’s overdue for a new exhaust, or a newer car or truck with a wimpy factory exhaust system, there’s almost nothing in the automotive aftermarket that can give you more bang for your buck than a new performance exhaust system. You can get it all: greater power, better sound, and shinier appearance, with just a few hours work.

Let’s cover some basics first. There are exhaust “kits” which include all needed parts, and are customized to fit YOUR particular year, make, and model. There are also universal mufflers and pipes which allow you to build your own set-up. Unless you’re an experienced fabricator, we recommend staying with the vehicle-specific kits, for both cost and ease of installation.

Learn about Performance Exhaust KitsAnother important fact: almost every car sold in the U.S. since the mid-1970s has been equipped with a catalytic converter. Trucks began “converting” to converters in the 1980s-early 1990s. The most straightforward approach is to look for a “cat-back” kit, meaning, an exhaust kit which will have everything you need, starting at the rear of your existing catalytic converter. We do not condone removal of emission control devices! You have the further option to consider exhaust headers, which replace factory exhaust manifolds. Due to their expense and complexity to install, they are outside of our scope today.

Learn about Performance Exhaust KitsHow do you start looking? Start by answering this question: which is most important, more power, louder sound, or better looks? If it’s power, look for kits from companies that post actual horsepower and torque gains for your engine. Exhaust systems can indeed improve your engine’s power output, and they do that by maximizing the efficiency of the exhaust flow. Several specific techniques which are used include converting from single to dual exhaust; utilizing straighter pipes with fewer bends; and making mufflers which have fewer baffles and restrictions.

If a throatier sound is your goal, you are in a much better position than those of us who were purchasing performance exhaust twenty years ago. Most reputable aftermarket exhaust manufacturers utilize “sound files” on their websites. Enter your vehicle info, select a system you’re interested in, and play the audio clip. Listen to 2 or 3 of them back to back, as what you’re really chasing is the relative distinction among them. When you’ve heard one you like, you have a pretty good idea of how your ride will sound.

Learn about Performance Exhaust Kits

If appearance is the number one priority, then look for systems which are made of polished stainless steel. These look especially good on trucks, the higher the lift the better, because obviously, you will be able to see more of the shine. Further appearance tweaks to consider are kits with optional side (behind the rear tires) exits vs. rear (under the bumper) exits, extended exhaust tips (the larger the diameter, the better!), and for certain pickups, vertical exhaust stacks that make your rig look like one of the big boys!

If you’re handy with tools, and more importantly, have a way to get your vehicle a few feet up in the air, installing a custom exhaust system is not difficult work. However, for older vehicles, you will likely be dealing with some rusty clamps and pipes, which will accelerate the frustration issue. If there’s any doubt about your ability to get this done, a professional who has access to a lift and power tools can knock out the job at minimal cost.

Whether you’re driving a 20-year-old econobox, a late-model muscle car, or a pickup truck of any vintage, you can completely transform your ride by bolting up a cat-back vehicle-specific exhaust system.

Filed Under: Mechanics

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights – Can I get Projectors, Halos and LEDS?

November 17, 2015 By Richard Reina 2 Comments

You’ve seen the cars and trucks with their custom headlight assemblies –boring factory units replaced with all-chrome or all-black headlight units, full of bright halos and LED strips, lighting up the night. Looks sick, right? But why are the guys and gals with the newest set of wheels having all the fun? You’re justifiably proud of your ‘60s (or ‘80s) old-skool ride, but have always assumed that custom headlights aren’t a choice for you because of your round or rectangular lamps.

Think again. If you’re running what we call “sealed-beam” headlamps, there are a lot of sealed-beam conversion options. These allow you to replace those one-piece units with lights that are equal to, if not better than, some of the custom composite jobs.

First, let’s clarify what kinds of Original-Equipment (OE) lights we’re talking about. Almost all U.S. spec cars through the mid-1970s used ROUND sealed-beam headlamps, either TWO 7” lamps, or FOUR 5 ¾” lamps. The 7” lamps are combination low/high beam, and cars with the 5 ¾” lamps are running 2 low beam, and 2 high beam.

Sealed Beam Conversion Kits - Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights – Can I get Projectors, Halos and LEDS?

In the mid-70s, cars and trucks started using rectangular sealed beam lamps as an option. If you had TWO (combo low/high), technically they were 200 mm (millimeter); FOUR of them (again, 2 low beam and 2 high) were each 165mm. Some lighting manufacturers call the small ones 4”x6” and the larger ones 7”x6”.  If there’s any doubt, check the number of electrical prongs in the back. Combo low/high beam lamps have THREE prongs. Separate low beam or high beam sealed beam lights have TWO prongs.

Sealed Beam Conversion Kits  - Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights

Now that you know what’s currently installed, what might you do to liven things up? Let’s start with the simplest choices first. Round and rectangular lamps are available, which include separate, replaceable bulbs. Combined with improved lenses and reflectors, these will dazzle you with their significantly improved light output. Unlike rather dim sealed beams, which require complete replacement when they burn out, these separate lens/bulb units only require you to reach in and replace the bulb – the lens stays in place.

You want more? Get lights with all-chrome or blacked-out housings, and use them as a styling statement, even when parked. Light assemblies in the same size and shape as your factory ones are available with halos or LED strips, just like you see on the newest BMWs and Audis. Of course, you also get fully functioning low and high beam lights.

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights - Sealed Beam Conversion Kits

How about halos in amber, blue, red, or green? You can set it up so that the amber halo functions as a turn signal. (Keep in mind that in many parts of the U.S., blue, red, or green front lights are considered for show use only. It’s a good practice with any of these lights to check your local ordinances for the appropriateness of on-road use.)

Sealed Beam Conversion Headlights - Sealed Beam Conversion Kits

Possibly the “ultimate” is an LED conversion kit. These multi-faceted lamp assemblies have a truly unique look, with their low/high beam LED lights, and bright LED halo rings.

Whichever you choose, we may have saved the best news for last- these are really easy to install! Sealed beam bulbs by definition require little technical ability to replace. They were designed to be removed and replaced with just a few screws. The conversion kits are installed in exactly the same way. Compared to the composite lamps on newer vehicles, some of which require front fascia removal, you’ll be done in a fraction of the time. Everything from a ’55 Chevy to an ’85 Mustang can showcase the vast improvement in its front lamps once a sealed beam conversion kit is installed.

Filed Under: Mechanics

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