If you’ve ever gone to purchase a car you may have gotten this advice. “Don’t buy a car from ____________ state because they recently had a lot of flooding.” But what does flooding actually do to a car? What kind of damage can it cause and is it really that bad?

I can never forget the 2004 Toyota Avalon that came to a dealership I worked in several years ago. The car had a starting problem, the deeper we dug the more problems we found. After weeks of electrical diagnosis, wiring repairs and replacement that customer decided to give up on this car. It was a car he had purchased after hurricane Sandy. With less than 75,000 miles he thought he was getting a deal of a lifetime. Instead, he ended up with a flood car that merely months after buying it was a useless hunk of metal.

Some of the Bigger Problems Flooding Can Cause:

Corrosion

It may take a few years for corrosion to surface on flood vehicles because it starts from the inside out. As most cause have high quantities of steel in them, corrosion can occur on just about anything. It can start on the inside of panels and eat away at the steel only for you to finally see it a few years later. Saltwater is especially notorious for this, but large quantities of fresh water have similar effects.

Electrical Problems

Wiring and water don’t mix well. Flood water can get into computers, sensors and other electrical components and start to cause problems. Some of these problems could take a long time to discover and may be tricky as they present themselves as other failures.

Mechanical Systems Seizing

Water lodges itself in all the little nooks and crannies. Water in compressors, pumps and other systems will cause failure sooner than later. Flood water in bearings and brakes can cause safety related failures as well.

Mold

When a car is saturated in water, it often causes mold to develop. This mold can be found in the trucks of cars, in seat cushions, under mats and even on the headliner. Even a little bit of toxic mold can make a car non operable and if repairing it is even possible it will cost thousands of dollars.

Engine Hydrolock

Even a little water in the combustion chamber can cause the engine to seize and fail costing you thousands for dollars. If there is water in the oil system, coolant system, air filters or any other part that’s part of the system delivering fluids, air or power to the engine you run the very rapid risk of hydro lock.

Here Are Some of the Fundamentals You Should Know If Your Car Was in a Flood:

• Don’t start your car! As I described above, even a little water in the wrong area of the car could cause irreversible damage. Don’t risk it and instead have the vehicle towed if you are considering repairs.
• Check your insurance paperwork. Most cars with water levels above the lower rocker will be considered total losses. If you have comprehensive coverage, this means that you’ll likely receive a pay out and need to start looking for a new vehicle. Carefully of course.
• Open the windows and use a wet / dry vacuum to begin to dry out the interior. The faster you get the interior dry the better.
• Connect with your mechanic and see if they are willing to inspect your car. Not every shop or mechanic will be willing to invest the time and reassures needed to deal with a flood car. If you plan on trying to salvage it you’ll water a qualified mechanic on your team.

Even if you do everything right your flood vehicle may likely not be salvageable. Sometimes you may have to take a step back and decide to go ahead and purchase another vehicle instead of risk investing money into one that might not work long term. Since some of the problems on a flooded vehicle might not be found for years, you might decide it’s just no longer worth the time or money needed.

 

As the number of electric vehicles on the road continues to increase, access to charging systems has also grown substantially. Being the owner of a plug-in electric vehicle has become even easier, especially with the convenience of home charging.

If you own or are considering purchasing an electric vehicle, selecting the right charging station to charge your car at home is an important decision. There are major considerations to take into account when choosing a home charger. Do you want a hard-wired of plug-in system? Would you want it installed inside or outside of your home? How long will you need the charging cable to be?

For ease of use, a charging station like the new Bosch Power Max 2 offers Wi-Fi connectivity, USB data storage and power metering as well as an on/off switch to save energy when not in use.

Where should I start?

The first thing you should do is make sure you understand the level of charging necessary for your car. Home chargers typically come in two categories, Level 1 (110 V) and Level 2 (240 V). In terms of incremental charging, Level 1 chargers provide 3-4 miles of charge per hour and Level 2 chargers provide 12-30 miles of charge per hour, nearly four times faster on average.

A key factor is whether or not the charging station will be able to fully charge your car overnight or faster. Level 2 charging stations vary in amperages typically ranging from 16 to 40 amps. Level 2 stations will charge your vehicle faster than Level 1, but there is a limit as some vehicles have a maximum amperage they’ll accept. This means you’ll need to know the maximum amperage of your car.

What is my car’s maximum amperage?

The amperage is the level of electric current at which your vehicle charges. Electric vehicles cannot accept a charge in excess of what they are capable of receiving. To determine your car’s amperage, review the owner’s manual for your vehicle and look for a charging station that supports that current.

What amperage station do I need?

After you have determined the level of charge your vehicle can take, you will need to match your charge station amperage with the maximum amperage of the vehicle. For example, if your vehicle can take a max of 16 amps, then a 40-amp station is more than your vehicle requires.

Selecting a station with greater amperage than your current vehicle can accept is called future proofing, which means that the charging station you choose now will still be compatible with your future EVs down the road.

How much electrical capacity do I have in my home? 

Once you have narrowed down the type of charging station you need, you’ll need to confirm that your house has either a 110-volt or a 240-volt breaker, which are the required capacities for a level 1 and level 2 home charging system, respectively. If you are unsure or unable to determine the electrical capacity in your home, refer to an experienced electrician.

Does location matter when installing my charging station?

You’ll want to install it in the location that is most convenient to charge your vehicle. For outside installation, ensure your charging station has a weather-resistant NEMA 3R rating at minimum. Some units offer 18- or 25- foot cable lengths, so consider how far you’ll need to extend the cable in advance. There’s a good possibility an electrician will have to run conduit depending upon placement, and the longer length will raise the installation cost. Convenience is key because you’ll plug in your car each night to charge.

What features are important when buying a charger?

Charging stations on the market offer a variety of options. The most important features to consider include cord length, weather resistance for indoor/outdoor use, network connectivity and weight.

Movable and permanently mounted home stations charge at the same rate, so selecting one depends on your personal preference. Movable units such as the Bosch Power Max 2 provide more flexibility, so if the time comes when you move, embark on a road trip, or decide to relocate your EVSE, you can take it with you.

I’m ready to install my ESVE charger. Now what?

Once you find the charging station that suits your personal needs, contact an experienced electrician for installation. You will need a dedicated circuit for your charging equipment. Your EVSE supplier or car dealer may be able to recommend a qualified electrician if you need assistance.

Every time we get in our car and head down the road, we put ourselves at risk for dings, dents, and who knows what else. Even when our cars are parked we can fall victim to hail, sun damage, and the dreaded fly-by bird droppings. As car lovers, we do everything we can to protect and maintain the exterior of our vehicles to ensure they stay looking shiny and new. So why wouldn’t we do that with the interior too?

Many of us think that the inside of our cars remain protected because well, they’re inside. But what we forget is that our interiors are subjected to just as much abuse as the exterior, and without a proper care plan in place, can be damaged quite quickly. The sun coming through your windshield isn’t just making your seats hot; it’s fading your interior. And that coffee spill? That’s a stain that will stay forever.

We could all do a better job of protecting the interiors of our cars to ensure maximum comfort and longevity. Follow these simple tips and your interior will remain as cherry as your exterior.

Windshield sun shades.

We all know how stifling it can be to sit in your car on a hot summer day and wait for the air conditioner to do its job. When the temperature outside gets to be 80 degrees or more, the temperature inside a car that’s sitting in direct sunlight can quickly rise to 130 degrees or higher.

One way to remedy that is by blocking out direct entry points where sunlight gets through with windshield sun shades. Most are in universal small, medium, and large sizes, but there are also vehicle-specific sun shades that ensure ultimate protection.

Dash and rear deck covers.

Heat isn’t the only byproduct of direct sunlight coming through the windows of your car. Even when temperatures aren’t high, the sun can damage your interior – specifically your dashboard and rear decks, which are most exposed through your front and read windshields.

The sun can fade and crack dash tops – especially dark-colored ones that absorb light even more – but a solid set of dash and rear deck covers will keep these areas cool and protected.

Floor mats.

It’s important to remember that floor mats protect our interiors from more than just rain and snow. If you camp or frequent the beach, you’re dragging dirt and sand into your interior. Just walking outside before getting into your car can bring gravel or grass inside as well. Combined with how often our mats shift around from getting in and out, it’s too easy for our carpets to get damaged.

“All-weather” style mats, though usually associated with cold weather, are equally effective in protecting carpeting in the summer. That’s why they are called “all-weather!” These will stay in place to collect water, dirt, and whatever else you can throw at them, while also protecting your carpet from the wear and tear of your feet.

Keep upholstery clean.

Easier said than done, right? We’ve all had that nightmare moment when the hamburger we were eating falls and the ketchup/mustard is smeared all over the seat. Since we’re driving, we usually can’t get to it right away and then it gets forgotten about.

Stains may become baked onto surfaces, and will be harder to clean if not attended to right away. I’d recommend keeping some sort of fabric cleaner and a little brush in your trunk. That way you can quickly pull over to remove the stain, or at least address it when you reach your destination. No one wants to sit on dried condiments.

Investing in some of these accessories does carry a cost, but it’s far less than what you would pay to reupholster your seats or have your carpets professionally cleaned.

There’s also simple tactics like trying to park in the shade whenever possible, or knocking dirt/sand off your shoes before getting into your car. By taking a few simple steps, and with a small investment, you can ensure the inside of your car remains in great shape for years of driving to come.

 

When we think of the best time to give our cars a check-up, most of us would suggest right before winter. There is always a lot of focus on getting cars ready for colder weather, but what goes unnoticed a lot of the time are the crucial maintenance and upgrades our cars need to withstand hot weather. Just like winter weather, extremely warm temperatures also take a large toll on your vehicle’s inner workings.

A lot of the maintenance necessary for summer can be done on your own, which is not only more fun, but it also saves you a lot of money. Here are some things to keep in mind as we head into these summer months:

Check your oil

Higher temperatures require higher oil weight/viscosity. Most new cars run fine year-round on the same viscosity oil, but if you’re driving an older car that’s racked up some significant mileage, it might be helpful to upgrade to a heavier oil to compensate for internal engine wear. However, before making the switch, do your research and make sure your car’s make/model will fare well with heavier/thicker oil in the summer.

Check your battery date

Most worry about their battery dying under the impact of cold weather, but what they don’t realize is that car batteries are more likely to die in the heat of the summer.  If your battery is over three years old, get it tested, or it might be a good idea to get a new unit just as a preventative measure to avoid getting stuck in the unbearable heat.

Top off fluids

Your radiator’s antifreeze does not need replacing every year, but some mechanics may suggest it. The mechanic should first test the fluid using a coolant hydrometer. You can check the coolant level yourself (easy to do at the see-through overflow bottle). If you need to top up, be sure to use a 50/50 mixture for best boil-over protection. Adding too much? Be sure to check for leaks (look for staining around hoses). While you’re under the hood, top up the washer solvent.

Change your air filters

Riding around with dirty filters prevents fresh air from getting to your engine and your interior, which has a lasting effect on your engine’s well-being, along with your fuel economy and your sinuses. Engine air filters are super easy to replace yourself. Consider the washable and reusable ones for better filtration and long-term savings. Don’t forget the cabin air filter, which keeps outside smells and pollens out of your heating and A/C systems.

Consider summer tires

 Summer can be just as taxing on tires as winter, as heat and sunlight break down the rubber more quickly. All-season tires are designed to handle many different conditions, but because it’s a one-size-fits-all there is some compromising. To maximize your year-round driving enjoyment, consider investing in wider wheels and summer tires for warmer months, and having winter tires on skinnier stock rims for colder weather.

Check your AC

Mechanics will try to convince you that you need a full flush and leak-down test every summer to make sure AC is working properly, but your AC is likely fine as long as it’s blowing cold air.

If it’s not, and you’re driving an older car, check to see if your heater control is stuck in the “ON” position, as you may only need a new heater valve. Some cars need nothing more than a “top up” of AC refrigerant once a year. If the top-up doesn’t fix it, ask for a test using pressure gauges, which will diagnose the real problem and avoid unnecessary replacement of parts.

Quick inspection

At least twice a year (just before summer and just before winter), be proactive and check fluid levels, battery terminal connections, belts, hoses, wipers, brakes, tires and lighting to catch small issues before they become big issues.

Following these preventative measures in the weeks leading up to summer will keep your car in good condition all season long and let you take full advantage of all your summer travels!

You’ve been told that your vehicle needs tires, and you’re on your way to the tire store. Or maybe not. Perhaps you’re online at any number of web-based tire suppliers. Of course, you know the year, make and model of your vehicle, but you have no idea what size tires are on there now. The current tires might be the ones installed by the factory. Or, they could be the set you bought 5 years ago which are now shot. Maybe you bought your car used and have no idea if what’s on there is correct.

What size tires are you going to buy?

You could go outside and look at the lettering on the sidewall. But it’s (pick one or more) dark/cold/rainy/late. Besides, you can’t find your flashlight. Or, you can’t do this right now because the car’s not here. Your wife/son/unemployed friend borrowed it for the evening. But, the online sites know your tire size, except, when you punch in the vehicle specifics, the screen invites you to “select your tire size from these choices”.

Argghh!

Not to worry. We’re here to help. Really. We are going to walk you through an understanding of all the alpha-numeric characters on a tire’s sidewall so that you can be certain that you’re getting the correct size tires for your car or truck.

First things first: unless you (or a previous owner) have modified your ride with larger wheels or significantly upgraded suspension, we will presume that you need to purchase tires in the same size as the factory used. If you are certain that the current tires are the same size, get that info from the sidewall. If you have doubts, you have other options. Look for the mandated tire pressure decal (it may be in the door jamb, fuel door, or glovebox lid), or look in the vehicle owner’s manual. You can also call the vehicle maker’s Customer Service Department. (They may ask you for the vehicle’s VIN, or Vehicle Identification Number, which you’ll find on a tag on top of the dash, or on your registration papers.)

You should have something very close to a string of alpha-numeric characters like this (the ones in parentheses may not be part of your particular tire’s size):

Here’s an example of an actual tire size:

P 195 / 65 R 16 95 V

We’ll decipher this coding very shorty. Before we do, here is the most important bit of information in our article: STAY WITH THE ORIGINAL, RECOMMENDED TIRE SIZE FOR YOUR CAR OR TRUCK. THIS SERIES OF LETTERS AND NUMBERS DETERMINES THE OVERALL DIAMETER OF YOUR WHEEL & TIRE COMBINATION. VARYING FROM THIS SIZE CAN AFFECT THE CAR’S HANDLING, BRAKING, SPEEDOMETER ACCURACY, AND OVERALL SAFETY.

You may find that the tire salesperson “recommends” a different size tire, for any number of reasons (price, brand, availability, perceived performance enhancements). Does everyone in fact always use the same size as originally installed? Of course not. But those who venture toward a different size usually have some deeper automotive technical knowledge, and this article is NOT intended for those folks. By giving you the decoding info, we’re arming you with the data to help you intelligently communicate with the tire seller, whether in person, on the phone, or online, during the sales transaction.

Let’s take the tire size above, P 195 / 65 R 15 95V, and assign a position to each character:

1^st character = P

2^nd character = 195

3^rd character = 65

4^th character = R

5^th character = 15

6^th character = 95

7^th character = V

Each character is named and deciphered as follows:

1^ST character (letter): SERVICE TYPE

• P = P-metric (also referred to as “passenger”); intended for use on passenger vehicles, including cars, SUVs, minivans, and light trucks.
• LT = Light Truck; intended for vehicles with heavier cargo or heavier towing capabilities, including heavier-duty pickups, SUVs, and vans.
• T = Temporary; almost exclusively found on spare tires (so-called mini spares) intended for short term only use.

2^nd character (number): TREAD WIDTH

• Measurement across the tire’s tread from sidewall to sidewall
• Always expressed in millimeters
• Common examples: 195, 225
• To convert to inches, divide by 25.4
• 195mm = 7.7”; 225mm = 8.9”

3^rd character (number): ASPECT RATIO

• The sidewall height (from wheel opening to outer edge of sidewall) expressed as a percentage of tread width
• Always indicated as “percent”
• Common examples: 65, 50
• Example #1: if the tread width is 195mm, and the aspect ratio is 65, the sidewall height = (195 x 65%), or (195 x .65), which equals 126.75mm
• Example #2: if the tread width is 225mm, and the aspect ratio is 50, the sidewall height = (225 x 50%), or (225 x .50), which equals 112.5mm
• To convert to inches, divide by 25.4
• 75mm = 5”; 112.5mm = 4.4”

4^th character (letter): TIRE CONSTRUCTION

• Indication of the way the tire’s internal plies and belts are arranged
• Most commonly found: “R” for “radial” tire (likely the case with 99.5% of new tires sold)
• Also found (but rare):
  • “D” for “diagonal” (bias ply);
  • “B” for “belted” (additional belts under the tread)

5^th character (number): WHEEL SIZE

• Indicates the diameter of the wheel, or rim
• Always expressed in inches
• Common examples: 15, 16, 18
• Also indicates the size of the hole in the middle of the tire
• The tire’s “wheel size” and the diameter of the wheel MUST MATCH

6^th character (number): LOAD INDEX

• Indicates the weight that a car is rated to carry
• Always expressed as a 2-digit number
• Conversion chart must be referenced to equate the load index to pounds
• Examples: 91; 95
• A load index of “91” equates to 1356 lb. per tire (at maximum allowed pressure)
• A load index of “95” equates to 1521 lb. per tire (at maximum allowed pressure)
• Never purchase tires with a lower load index than originally equipped!

7^th character (letter): SPEED RATING

• Indicates the maximum speed that the vehicle is rated to travel on these tires
• Always expressed as a single letter
• Conversion chart must be referenced to equate the speed rating to MPH
• Examples: S; V
• A speed rating of “S” equates to 112 MPH / 180 KPH (at maximum allowed pressure)
• A speed rating of “V” equates to 149 MPH / 240 KPH (at maximum allowed pressure)
• Never purchase tires with a lower speed rating than originally equipped!

What should you do with all this information? Print this out (or access it on your mobile device) as a reference guide. If you’re offered tires in the EXACT same size, load index, and speed rating as your original equipment (OE) tires, you’re there. (Information on selecting a brand, quality level, and tread design are for a future article.) If you are offered a tire that’s “almost the same size” (perhaps the aspect ratio is a larger number) and you’re told “it’s close enough”, STOP. That is not true. Either insist on the correct size tire, or find another retailer who has the sizes you need. Any change in tread width, aspect ratio, load index or speed rating will affect the way your vehicle drives, and could seriously affect the safety of everyone who rides with you. There are enough reputable dealers out there to allow you to find someone who understands, as you now do, that the only correct tires for your car are the right-sized tires.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whether you have an older ride that’s overdue for a new exhaust, or a newer car or truck with a wimpy factory exhaust system, there’s almost nothing in the automotive aftermarket that can give you more bang for your buck than a new performance exhaust system. You can get it all: greater power, better sound, and shinier appearance, with just a few hours work.

Let’s cover some basics first. There are exhaust “kits” which include all needed parts, and are customized to fit YOUR particular year, make, and model. There are also universal mufflers and pipes which allow you to build your own set-up. Unless you’re an experienced fabricator, we recommend staying with the vehicle-specific kits, for both cost and ease of installation.

Another important fact: almost every car sold in the U.S. since the mid-1970s has been equipped with a catalytic converter. Trucks began “converting” to converters in the 1980s-early 1990s. The most straightforward approach is to look for a “cat-back” kit, meaning, an exhaust kit which will have everything you need, starting at the rear of your existing catalytic converter. We do not condone removal of emission control devices! You have the further option to consider exhaust headers, which replace factory exhaust manifolds. Due to their expense and complexity to install, they are outside of our scope today.

How do you start looking? Start by answering this question: which is most important, more power, louder sound, or better looks? If it’s power, look for kits from companies that post actual horsepower and torque gains for your engine. Exhaust systems can indeed improve your engine’s power output, and they do that by maximizing the efficiency of the exhaust flow. Several specific techniques which are used include converting from single to dual exhaust; utilizing straighter pipes with fewer bends; and making mufflers which have fewer baffles and restrictions.

If a throatier sound is your goal, you are in a much better position than those of us who were purchasing performance exhaust twenty years ago. Most reputable aftermarket exhaust manufacturers utilize “sound files” on their websites. Enter your vehicle info, select a system you’re interested in, and play the audio clip. Listen to 2 or 3 of them back to back, as what you’re really chasing is the relative distinction among them. When you’ve heard one you like, you have a pretty good idea of how your ride will sound.

If appearance is the number one priority, then look for systems which are made of polished stainless steel. These look especially good on trucks, the higher the lift the better, because obviously, you will be able to see more of the shine. Further appearance tweaks to consider are kits with optional side (behind the rear tires) exits vs. rear (under the bumper) exits, extended exhaust tips (the larger the diameter, the better!), and for certain pickups, vertical exhaust stacks that make your rig look like one of the big boys!

If you’re handy with tools, and more importantly, have a way to get your vehicle a few feet up in the air, installing a custom exhaust system is not difficult work. However, for older vehicles, you will likely be dealing with some rusty clamps and pipes, which will accelerate the frustration issue. If there’s any doubt about your ability to get this done, a professional who has access to a lift and power tools can knock out the job at minimal cost.

Whether you’re driving a 20-year-old econobox, a late-model muscle car, or a pickup truck of any vintage, you can completely transform your ride by bolting up a cat-back vehicle-specific exhaust system.

You’ve seen the cars and trucks with their custom headlight assemblies –boring factory units replaced with all-chrome or all-black headlight units, full of bright halos and LED strips, lighting up the night. Looks sick, right? But why are the guys and gals with the newest set of wheels having all the fun? You’re justifiably proud of your ‘60s (or ‘80s) old-skool ride, but have always assumed that custom headlights aren’t a choice for you because of your round or rectangular lamps.

Think again. If you’re running what we call “sealed-beam” headlamps, there are a lot of sealed-beam conversion options. These allow you to replace those one-piece units with lights that are equal to, if not better than, some of the custom composite jobs.

First, let’s clarify what kinds of Original-Equipment (OE) lights we’re talking about. Almost all U.S. spec cars through the mid-1970s used ROUND sealed-beam headlamps, either TWO 7” lamps, or FOUR 5 ¾” lamps. The 7” lamps are combination low/high beam, and cars with the 5 ¾” lamps are running 2 low beam, and 2 high beam.

In the mid-70s, cars and trucks started using rectangular sealed beam lamps as an option. If you had TWO (combo low/high), technically they were 200 mm (millimeter); FOUR of them (again, 2 low beam and 2 high) were each 165mm. Some lighting manufacturers call the small ones 4”x6” and the larger ones 7”x6”.  If there’s any doubt, check the number of electrical prongs in the back. Combo low/high beam lamps have THREE prongs. Separate low beam or high beam sealed beam lights have TWO prongs.

Now that you know what’s currently installed, what might you do to liven things up? Let’s start with the simplest choices first. Round and rectangular lamps are available, which include separate, replaceable bulbs. Combined with improved lenses and reflectors, these will dazzle you with their significantly improved light output. Unlike rather dim sealed beams, which require complete replacement when they burn out, these separate lens/bulb units only require you to reach in and replace the bulb – the lens stays in place.

You want more? Get lights with all-chrome or blacked-out housings, and use them as a styling statement, even when parked. Light assemblies in the same size and shape as your factory ones are available with halos or LED strips, just like you see on the newest BMWs and Audis. Of course, you also get fully functioning low and high beam lights.

How about halos in amber, blue, red, or green? You can set it up so that the amber halo functions as a turn signal. (Keep in mind that in many parts of the U.S., blue, red, or green front lights are considered for show use only. It’s a good practice with any of these lights to check your local ordinances for the appropriateness of on-road use.)

Possibly the “ultimate” is an LED conversion kit. These multi-faceted lamp assemblies have a truly unique look, with their low/high beam LED lights, and bright LED halo rings.

Whichever you choose, we may have saved the best news for last- these are really easy to install! Sealed beam bulbs by definition require little technical ability to replace. They were designed to be removed and replaced with just a few screws. The conversion kits are installed in exactly the same way. Compared to the composite lamps on newer vehicles, some of which require front fascia removal, you’ll be done in a fraction of the time. Everything from a ’55 Chevy to an ’85 Mustang can showcase the vast improvement in its front lamps once a sealed beam conversion kit is installed.

 

What comes to mind when you hear the term “automotive performance?” Most people, auto enthusiast or not, will think of big crate engines, superchargers and turbos, flame throwing exhaust, and maybe even suspension components. But what about brakes? All of that extra “go” will be useless if you can’t stop. Most of us will know it’s time to replace our brakes when one of two things happen:

• Your service mechanic tells you after completing an oil change, tire rotation, or similar job
• As you approach a red light you hear that notorious squeal that announces to you and everyone in a 2 block radius that the time has come

But the term “brake job” can mean many things depending on your vehicle, driving style, and how often you maintain your brakes. And just like the vast selection of air intakes, tuners, and other performance parts, there is a large variety of replacement and performance brake components.

Replacement vs. Performance

The first thing to determine is what you need. Are you looking to repair a commuter car or replace brakes on a non-modified vehicle? If so replacement brake parts will be a lower cost compared to performance parts and just as effective for normal driving. If your vehicle has some engine modifications, you like to drive on winding mountain roads, or you do a lot of towing, then you should possibly consider upgrading your brakes. In either case, the two main components will be the same: pads and rotors.

 

 

Brake Pads

Brake pads are arguably the most important part of your vehicle braking system. As you apply your brake pedal they compress and create friction, causing your vehicle to stop. Whether your vehicle’s brakes are disc or drum style, you should purchase new pads each time you service your brakes.

Brake pads are categorized into 4 main groups:

Non-metallic – Generally the lowest cost option, these pads are quiet and have a “soft” feel when braking, but can wear quickly and create a lot of brake dust

Semi-metallic – Mid-range option as far as cost and durability. These pads will have a slightly harder feel and will be louder braking than the non-metallic, but will last longer and create less dust

Ceramic – These will be your upgrade or performance option for most passenger vehicles. Ceramic pads will provide more stopping power than the semi- and non-metallic while being extremely quiet with a “soft” feel. These pads do however have a higher cost and are more prone to overheating.

Fully metallic – Fully metallic brake pads are generally only used for race vehicles. They will have a “hard” feel, are loud, and will not be as effective in normal driving conditions as the others. These pads are made to withstand prolonged hard braking at high speeds. Vehicles used for daily driving or commuting should not use this style pad.

Rotors

Also known as “Discs” are the flat circular surface that you can sometimes see through your wheel. Disc style brakes are factory equipment in most cars today. If your vehicle is equipped with disc brakes, you have a few options for replacements. * Note: There are some vehicles that do not have rotors, and therefore you would not need to replace. These drum style brake systems are sometimes found in older vehicles and the rear axle of small economy cars*

OEM/ Factory style – These rotors will generally be your lowest cost option and what most economy vehicles are equipped with from the factory. They are commonly made of iron with aluminum centers. OEM style rotors will have a flat surface and can either come solid or vented (they look like 2 solid rotors with a space in the center). Vented rotors are generally used in the front of vehicles as they help to dissipate heat.

Slotted – Slotted, or “grooved” rotors have shallow channels on the surface of the rotor. These channels help to dissipate heat, water, brake dust, and friction gases off of the braking surface while still maintaining their structural integrity and a quiet ride. This makes them a good upgrade options for 4X4s and towing vehicles. Slotted rotors do, however, cause more pad wear and will require pad replacements more often.

Drilled – Drilled rotors are built for performance driving. These rotors have holes drilled through both sides of the rotor, maximizing heat and debris dissipation. Because of the intricacy of these parts, they are generally higher cost than the slotted and factory style options. Drilled rotors are not as strong as slotted or solid rotors and therefore are not good for heavy vehicles or driving styles that require abrupt stopping such as drifting or stunt driving.

Ceramic – Similar to the ceramic pads, ceramic rotors are considered your high-end upgrade or performance option. These rotors are corrosion resistant and increased friction efficiency. Ceramic rotors will be more expensive than most iron based options.

Selecting the correct pads and rotors based off of your driving style and vehicle will increase brake life as well as your safety. It is important to understand how each of these components work separately as well as in tandem with one another. If you have questions it’s advised that you seek the advice of a professional prior to purchasing replacements.

 

We have probably all experienced this before: you are driving down a street at night and you notice that the road in front of your vehicle is not as lit as it normally is. You pull over and notice that one of your headlight bulbs is no longer on. This is both a legal and safety concern.

Regular vehicle maintenance is a necessity if you own a vehicle and can be costly. This does not mean, however, that you always need to seek out a repair shop or visit the dealership. There are many simple maintenance jobs that you can do yourself with a little bit of knowledge. Here are three things to consider when choosing a headlight bulb:

Type of blub

Halogen. Halogen bulbs are the most common type of bulb used for automotive headlights. They are a filament style bulb, similar to those you would find in a house lamp. Halogen bulbs are low maintenance and generally are the least expensive option.

HID/ Xenon. HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs entered the automotive industry in the mid- 1990s and are becoming an increasingly popular factory option for mid-high end vehicles like BMW, Mercedes, and Audi. Unlike halogen, HID bulbs do not have a filament. Instead their light comes from the ignition of xenon gas within the glass. Compared to a halogen bulb, HIDs offer substantially increased lumens (brightness), a statistically longer use life, and require less wattage while running. If your vehicle came equipped with HID bulbs then your replacement bulb will also have to be an HID. If your vehicle did not come with factory HID bulbs you can switch your bulbs by purchasing a conversion kit. Because HID bulbs require a different electrical current than your vehicle produces, a ballast is required with these bulbs. Most of these conversion kits are “plug and play” and are an easy to moderate DIY project.

LED. LEDs (Light emitting diodes) are the newest technology for headlight bulbs, but LED technology has been around since the mid- 1900’s. In the automotive industry, LEDs are commonly used in “non-projection applications” such as interior lights, license plate lights, and taillights. They have only recently been configured for use in projection applications like headlights. Unlike halogen bulbs, LEDs do not require a ballast, or any other special wiring. Also, because they are a diode they are much more durable than both the halogen and HID bulbs. Similar to the HID bulbs, there are conversion kits if your vehicle does not have LEDs as a factory equipment. LEDs are generally your most expensive bulb option.

Wattage

Headlight bulbs do come in different wattages. The higher the wattage the more lumens a bulb will put out. Standard halogen replacement bulbs are generally 55 watt for most vehicles while HID bulbs run at around 35 watts. Increasing the wattage bulb that you use will increase brightness, however because you can easily blind oncoming traffic, some states have restrictions on the maximum wattage your headlight can be. Also, the more you increase the wattage of your bulb, the more strain you are putting on your vehicles electrical system, which may cause bulbs to sometimes dim or wires to overheat when used for long periods.

Kelvin Rating

Kelvin rating, in terms of bulbs, will determine what color light your headlights will emit. Lower Kelvin ratings (2,500K to 3,500K) will look yellow, 3,800 – 4,000 will look white, and then the higher kelvin will turn blue (6,000K – 10,000K) then eventually purple (12,00K). Kelvin rating has no effect on brightness, but the change in color may make it appear that higher wattage blue/ purple bulbs are not as bright as the mid-range bulbs. For both legality and safety reasons most street legal headlight bulbs will be available in the 3,400K to 5,000K range.